The Best Ingredients for Fighting Acne, According to Dermatologists

• The best ingredients for acne are benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinol, tea tree oil, and sulfur.
• Ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, alpha-hydroxy acids, tea tree oil, and sulfur have antibacterial properties, which help kill acne-causing bacteria.
• Salicylic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells, which helps unclog pores and reduce breakouts.
• This article was medically reviewed by Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with a private practice in New York City.
• Visit Insider’s Health Reference library for more advice.

Acne is extremely common in the United States, affecting around 50 million Americans every year. Acne can be stubborn and hard to get rid of, but there are many treatments available, both over the counter and via prescription, that can help you get clear skin. 

With a huge assortment of anti-acne products out there to choose from, how do you know which is best for you? Many acne treatments differ mainly by their active ingredients. We’re breaking down 6 ingredients, from how they work to how to use them. Here’s what you need to know. 

Benzoyl peroxide

How it’s beneficial for acne: Benzoyl peroxide is an over the counter topical medication that reduces the amount of acne-causing bacteria that lives on the skin, says Teo Soleymani, MD, FAAD, a board-certified faculty dermatologist and Mohs Micrographic surgeon at UCLA. 

By killing acne-causing bacteria, it can reduce the number of whiteheads and larger pimples, as well as reduce the frequency of breakouts, says Soleymani.

A large 2020 meta-analysis published in Cochrane Library looked at almost 30,000 participants and found that benzoyl peroxide is more effective than a placebo in treating acne.  

How to use this product: You can find benzoyl peroxide in cleansers that should be used once or twice daily. 

What concentration you should use: Less is more in the case of benzoyl peroxide. Soleymani says using benzoyl peroxide with a concentration of  2-5% should work just as well for facial acne at higher concentrations of 10% or more. Lower concentrations will not be as harsh or drying to the delicate skin on your face.

With that in mind, acne on the chest and back may require higher concentrations of benzoyl peroxide to see results, says Cliff Perlis, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Keystone Dermatology Partners outside of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. While a higher strength like 10% may be too much for the face, it can do the trick for pesky acne on the back or other parts of the body.

How long it takes to work: It takes about two weeks or more to start seeing improvement, says Perlis. 

Salicylic acid

How it’s beneficial for acne: Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that removes the top layer of dead skin cells, says Soleymani. It is able to do this by deeply penetrating the pores, thereby unclogging them.  

By unclogging your pores, Soleymani says that salicylic acid can reduce the number and size of blackheads. It can also help rid your skin of excess oil, thereby preventing new pimples. 

A 2015 comprehensive review published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology determined that salicylic acid is safe and effective in treating acne. 

How to use this product: You can use this product in a cleanser, gel, moisturizer, or cream. Perlis says it should be used once or twice a day, depending on the particular product you are using. Read the label for suggested use.

What concentration you should use: As with the benzoyl peroxide, a higher concentration of salicylic acid does not mean it will be more effective. You’ll likely see concentrations available ranging from .5% to 5%. Soleymani says 1% to 2% is a good target to use. 

How long it takes to work: You’ll see results in one to two weeks, Soleymani says.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

How it’s beneficial for acne: AHAs are a group of chemical exfoliants. They remove dead skin cells, prevent the collection of sebum (oil) and prevent bacterial overgrowth, Perlis says. There are different types of AHAs such as:

• Lactic acid
• Mandelic acid
• Glycolic acid
  

By removing dead skin cells and getting rid of excess oil, AHAs can help to unclog pores thereby reducing breakouts.

Studies have shown AHAs to be moderately beneficial. A 2010 study published in the Official Journal of the Italian Society of Dermatology and Sexually Transmitted Diseases examined 248 participants with mild to moderate acne over the course of 60 days and found that the effectiveness was high in 64.2% of patients, decreasing the prevalence of mild to moderate acne in participants, and that it was very tolerable on the skin.

How to use this product: Soleymani says AHAs are best used at low concentrations in a once-daily cleanser. Alternatively, you can use it as a chemical peel exfoliant once a week or so at higher concentrations, like 10-15%, but Soleymani recommends checking with a dermatologist first since it may irritate skin.

At first, when you use AHAs, you might experience tingling, itchiness, and dryness, Perlis says. If this happens, decrease your usage to every other day or every third day until you get used to the product. Once you’re used to it,  you can increase the frequency. Perlis also stresses the importance of using sunscreen if you are using AHAs in your skincare routine since AHAs make your skin more sensitive to UV radiation.

What concentration you should use: In a cleanser, Soleymani says you should look for 3% to 8%. Concentrations higher in peels and masks should be used with caution since they can cause serious damage if used incorrectly.

How long it takes to work: AHAs work pretty quickly, and you can see improvement in a week or less, Soleymani says.

Retinol

How it’s beneficial for acne: Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is a vitamin A derivative, Soleymani says. It can increase the skin-cell turnover rate by getting rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, and promoting the growth of new collagen and healthy new skin cells.  

Soleymani says retinol is great for reducing the size and frequency of blackheads, whiteheads, and even deeper painful pimples, due to its skin-cell turnover abilities. Plus, it will improve the overall texture and tone of your skin. 

A 2017 review published in Dermatology and Therapy stated that retinoids should be a mainstay treatment for acne since it has been shown to be effective in treating different types of acne in “many thousands” of patients. 

How to use this product: Retinol is typically available in gel form. Perlis says the rule of thumb is to “start low and go slow,” meaning start with low concentrations and not applying every day, since retinoids can cause redness, itching, dryness, and sun sensitivity.  

Perlis suggests applying every other night or every third night when you first start out to reduce irritation, then you can eventually increase the frequency to every day. 

It should always be applied to dry skin. Applying to wet skin can increase irritation. Perlis says. Additionally, Soleymani says it is best to apply retinol at night before bed, and to use a moisturizer after to combat the dryness that may occur. Additionally, they should not be used during pregnancy.

What concentration you should use: It is not common to see the concentration of retinol in OTC products since it is an inactive version of retinoic acid, says Soleymani. However, Differin, the most common OTC retinol has a concentration of .1%. 

But if you get a prescription-strength retinoid from a dermatologist, the concentration will range from 0.025% to 1%, and the right strength for you will be determined by your dermatologist. 

How long it takes to work: It takes a longer time for retinoids to work. Regardless of if you are using an OTC retinol like Differin or a prescription-strength retinoid, it will likely take 4 to 6 weeks or more to see results, Perlis says. 

Tea tree oil

How it’s beneficial for acne: Perlis says that tea tree oil has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which may be helpful for acne. “I stress the word “may,” because the studies supporting it are small and much lower quality than the research for some other [acne] treatments discussed,” says Perlis. 

One 2017 study published in the Australasian Journal of Dermatology examined 18 people with mild to moderate acne, and found that a tea tree oil gel was effective in reducing acne. However, more larger-scale studies are necessary to really determine the efficacy. 

How to use this product:  Soleymani says to use tea tree oil in a cleanser. Tea tree oil as an essential oil should not be applied straight to the skin because it can cause a rash.

What concentration you should use: Perlis says the lack of standardization across tea tree oil products makes it difficult to provide guidelines for concentrations or application.  

How long it takes to work: Based on the Australasian Journal of Dermatology study saw slight results after 4 weeks, and even more after 12 weeks. 

Sulfur

How it’s beneficial for acne: Soleymani says it reduces the frequency of both blackheads and whiteheads. This happens because it removes the top layer of skin cells, which unclogs pores. Additionally, Perlis says it can decrease the redness and size of pimples. 

A 2009 review published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology stated that sulfur was effective as a drying and antibacterial agent for acne and that it was suitable for sensitive skin.

How to use this product: Sulfur is available in cleansers and maks or spot treatments that are meant to just be applied to problem spots.

What concentration you should use: Soleymani says you should opt for a product with a sulfur concentration of 3% to 5% should be used. 

How long it takes to work: Spot treatments can improve the appearance of pimples in just a few days, Perlis says. Using a less concentrated cleanser can take a couple of weeks to show results. 

When to see a doctor

If your acne isn’t improving at all after about a month of trying products with these ingredients, you should go see a dermatologist. They can help you come up with a more effective skincare routine, or they may determine that you need something stronger such as a prescription topical treatment or an oral treatment such as antibiotics. 

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Ashley Laderer

Ashley Laderer is a freelance writer from New York who specializes in health and wellness. Follow her on Twitter @ashladerer

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The Best Ingredients for Acne Prone Skin

We know there are TONS of acne skin care products out there to choose from. It can be overwhelming and frustrating trying to figure out which  products will work best for your skin. We totally get it, so we put together a list of some of the most effective acne ingredients to help you find products that meet your skin needs. Meet the MVP ingredients for teen acne prone skin. These all-star ingredients are the heroes to help prevent and treat breakouts.

salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy-acid that is commonly used to treat acne. Salicylic acid is oil loving! It is derived from willow tree bark and can help to reduce excess sebum in the skin. Its anti-inflammatory and exfoliant properties are perfect for oily and acne prone skin types. In addition to helping regulate and balance out oil production, it can also help to unclog pores. It dives deep into the pores to pull out dirt, oil and bacteria, which is ideal in managing blackheads and breakouts.

Do’s and Don’ts when using SALICYLIC ACID for skin 

• Use daily or every other day 
• Reduce use to once a week if skin starts to dry 
• Try our Breakout Clearing Booster, a fast-acting spot treatment formulated with Salicylic Acid that helps combat breakout-causing bacteria for rapid skin clearing
• Products containing salicylic acid can also be applied after pimple extraction to cleanse the area

niacinamide

Niacinamide is a hero ingredient because of its versatility. It can benefit almost any skin type and address multiple skin concerns. Niacinamide is non-sensitizing, which makes it an ideal ingredient for not only acneic skin, but sensitive skin. It works beautifully to help strengthen your skin barrier, and repair past damage such as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne scarring. It also helps to keep pores clean, it helps to stop dirt, oil and debris from getting trapped in the pore, along with tightening and minimizing pore size when used consistently.

Do’s and Don’ts when using NIACINAMIDE for skin 

• Niacinamide can be applied morning and evening 
• Niacinamide works well with most other ingredients so feel free to layer with other products
• Try our Micro-Pore Mist, a toner formulated with niacinamide to help minimize the appearance of pores, reduce excess oil, and brighten the skin from post-breakout marks.

kaolin clay

Kaolin is a very absorbent naturally occurring clay mineral that is more gentle than other varieties of clay.  This makes it ideal for reducing oiliness and shine in sensitive and acne prone skin. It is a great ingredient to reduce excess oil, deep clean pores and remove impurities. Kaolin is also known for reducing inflammation, which will help reduce irritation, redness and swelling that commonly accompany acne breakouts, as well as helping to prevent new breakouts.

Do’s and Don’ts when using KAOLIN CLAY for skin

• This ingredient is good especially for those with oily skin
• Kaolin clay is commonly found in mask treatments so keep an eye it for in mask form
• Fun Fact: kaolin clay in its pure form can used for many other things such as dry shampoo, natural deodorant, and much more 

sulfur

Sulfur works to dry out the skin, making it the perfect ingredient to combat breakouts in extremely oily skin types. This is important to remember when choosing to use products containing sulfur, as we do not want to over dry the skin. Typically acne is caused by the excess production of oil in the sebaceous glands and sulfur’s ability to cut down on sebum can help those with acne-prone skin combat breakouts. Sulfur also has antibacterial properties that can help to fight bacteria that can cause infections within the skin.

Do’s and Don’ts when using SULFUR for skin

• Don’t overuse products containing sulfur because it will dry out the skin

• Try our Blackhead Clearing Fizz Mask containing sulfur to clear pores and blackheads
• Be prepared for the distinct smell of sulfur. It may not be pleasant, but it is tolerable 

Top 5 Acne Ingredients: Top 10 Effective Products at a Glance

Contents

• Salicylic Acid
• AHAs
• Natural clay
• Zinc
• Retinol

Salicylic acid

Renewing acids are known to have a beneficial effect on problematic skin. However, we give the first place in our hit parade to salicylic acid. For what? For being able to do several things at once:

• exfoliate – as an excellent keratolytic, it removes dead cells that usually accumulate on the surface of oily skin and clog pores.

• regulate sebum production – by loosening sebum, salicylic acid dissolves sebaceous plugs and reduces oiliness of the skin over time.

• relieve inflammation, i.e. inhibit the growth of bacteria, including those responsible for the formation of acne.

Check if you are taking care of problematic skin properly.

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Salicylic acid is included in gels and foams to rid the skin of dead cells during cleansing. It is also used in ambulance products for local control of rashes and in creams for daily care. Here are examples:

• Exfopro Anti-Acne Ultra Cleansing Gel with Brush, Garnier thoroughly cleanses the skin with soft elastic bristles and fights acne thanks to 2% salicylic acid and a phytocomplex in the composition.

• Effaclar Duo (+), La Roche-Posay Cream-Gel also contains lipohydroxy acid, a milder version of salicylic acid, for non-aggressive daily cell renewal.

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AHA-acids

Like salicylic, alpha-hydroxy acids accelerate the process of cellular renewal, which is disturbed in oily skin. Aligning the relief and color, they significantly improve the appearance of the skin.

AHAs are used in cleansers and formulas to combat acne and its effects.

• Normaderm Pore Refining Cleansing Lotion, Vichy combines glycolic and salicylic acids for a smoothing action and fights imperfections.

• Blemish & Age Defense Serum, SkinCeuticals with salicylic, glycolic and citric acids reduces skin greasiness, helping to reduce imperfections and post-acne.

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Natural clay

Kaolin, rassul, montmorillonite – all these varieties of clay have numerous advantages.

• Eliminate excess sebum.

• Draw out impurities from the pores and thus deeply cleanse the skin.

• Mattifies the skin and even relieves puffiness a little.

• Clay Magic Purifying Mask. Cleansing and mattifying”, L’Oréal Paris contains three types of clay and eucalyptus, known for its anti-inflammatory effect.

• Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque with Amazonian White Clay, Kiehl’s leaves a feeling of cleanliness and visibly tones, as it contains aloe extract.

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Zinc

This proven ingredient acts as a topical antibiotic: inhibits the activity of acne-causing bacteria, plus has sebum-regulating abilities. Not surprisingly, zinc is often found on the list of active ingredients in cosmetics for problem skin.

• Clear Skin Cleansing Toner for Blackheads & Shine, Garnier includes salicylic acid to stimulate cell renewal and prevent blackheads, and zinc to regulate sebum production.

• Cleansing Foaming Gel for Oily Skin Effaclar, La Roche-Posay along with soothing thermal water contains zinc, which cares for oily, problematic skin and normalizes sebum production.

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Retinol

It is also known as vitamin A. It is known as one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients that literally transforms the skin. Its main action is renewing. Therefore, it is the best suited for the fight against acne and traces left after inflammation.

Please note that retinol is an active ingredient that causes a very quick reaction in the skin, which can be expressed in redness and flaking. Retinol products should be used with caution, introducing them into care gradually.

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Pimples, blackheads and acne: what cosmetics cause skin problems

Blackheads and pimples haunt you? Sometimes the reason may lie in your makeup bag. At the same time, it doesn’t matter how thoroughly you wash your face or how often you go to the beautician – it’s all about those substances that clog pores. There is even a comedogenicity scale, where cosmetic ingredients are ranked from zero to five, depending on how much they provoke inflammation. Below we will talk about the most common cosmetic components that cause acne.

Lanolin

This is a natural ingredient produced by sheepskin, which keeps the animal’s coat soft. The component is used in moisturizers for the skin, but, alas, it is very comedogenic. Lanolin is found in formulations under the following names: acetylated lanolin alcohol, ethoxylated lanolin, or PEG 16 lanolin. The ingredient often gets into concealer formulations – the danger is that it not only clogs pores, but also irritates the delicate skin around the eyes. But finding it in cosmetics is not so easy due to the wide variety of algae species. They may appear on the ingredient list as carrageenan, kelp, brown algae, or plankton extract.

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Almond Oil

Almond oil in a moisturizer is great for dry and dehydrated skin. But for owners of a normal and oily type, it is better not to use oil on the face, chest and back – it is in these areas that acne most often occurs.

Benzaldehyde

This fragrance is often added to cosmetics and skin care products. Although the component gives them a pleasant aroma, it is quite possible to do without it – on the comedogenicity scale, it is estimated at three and a half points. Instead, opt for natural flavors such as natural fruit extracts.

Lauric acid

Fatty lauric acid is often found in facials. This is the same component that is responsible for the comedogenicity in coconut oil. Therefore, if you already have a hormonal imbalance or if you are eating improperly for some reason, try to avoid products with this acid or with coconut oil itself. Otherwise, you can not avoid new foci of inflammation on the face.

Stearic acid

This ingredient has been found in some expensive foundations. Although it is considered not too comedogenic, it clogs pores with prolonged use and also irritates sensitive skin.

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Shea Butter

Shea Butter is great for moisturizing and nourishing the body, but can be problematic when applied to the face. Too thick texture provokes the appearance of acne, so it is not suitable for acne-prone skin.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

SLS is the ingredient that makes your cleanser lather but also irritates people with sensitive skin. It is a surfactant that often disrupts the skin barrier and exacerbates active breakouts. Luckily, there are plenty of sulfate-free cleansers and shower gels out there that do the job just as well, so find the right replacement for you.

Sodium chloride

Sodium chloride is the chemical term for salt. It is commonly used in cleansers for its exfoliating properties and ability to thicken product texture. Beware of foundation products containing sodium chloride: they can cause rashes in the chin area and around the mouth.

Alcohol

Tonics and exfoliating products for oily skin often contain specific forms of alcohol such as SD Alcohol 40, denatured and isopropyl alcohol, ethanol. They not only remove excess sebum, but also dry the epidermis, thereby forcing the sebaceous glands to work more actively and aggravate the problem.