Considering getting a pet turtle?. You may want to reconsider. Turtles require specialized care, can transmit diseases, and their release into the wild can harm the environment. Explore the risks and why adopting may be a better option.

The Health Risks of Owning a Pet Turtle

Turtles can pose a significant health risk to their owners, especially children, the elderly, and those with weakened immune systems. Turtles are known carriers of Salmonella bacteria, which can cause severe illness in humans. Even without direct contact, Salmonella can be transmitted through surfaces the turtle has touched. In fact, a 2006 study found that exposure to reptiles, including turtles, was one of the biggest risk factors for infants contracting Salmonella.

Due to the health risks, the sale of small turtles (with shells less than four inches long) has been banned in the United States since 1975. However, some sellers try to circumvent this law by claiming the turtles are for educational or scientific purposes. It’s important to be aware of the law and to avoid purchasing small turtles, as the disease risk is too great, especially for young children.

The Environmental Impact of Releasing Pet Turtles

Turtles that are released into the wild, whether accidentally or intentionally, can have a devastating impact on the local ecosystem. The red-eared slider turtle, a common pet turtle, is considered one of the world’s 100 most invasive species. These turtles can outcompete native species for food and habitat, threatening the biodiversity of the areas where they are introduced.

Additionally, released turtles may carry diseases that can infect and harm the local turtle population. Owners who can no longer care for their turtles often turn to rescue groups, which are already overwhelmed with calls to take in these animals. Releasing turtles is generally illegal and can have far-reaching consequences for the environment.

The Specialized Care Requirements of Turtles

Turtles are often marketed as low-maintenance pets, but the reality is that they require specialized care and a significant long-term commitment. Turtles need the right lighting, temperature, and water filtration systems to thrive. Improper care can lead to countless turtle deaths, as they are unable to survive in small tanks or dishes with inadequate conditions.

Additionally, turtles can live for decades and grow to be over a foot long. Caring for a turtle is a lifetime responsibility that many people are not prepared to meet. If you are considering a turtle as a pet, it’s crucial to do extensive research and be ready to provide the specialized care they require for the entirety of their long lifespan.

Adopting a Turtle from a Rescue: The Better Choice

If you have done your research and are prepared to take on the responsibility of a pet turtle, we suggest adopting one from a local animal shelter or rescue group instead of purchasing one from a pet store. This helps reduce the demand for turtles bred for the pet trade, which often involves deplorable conditions and mistreatment of the animals.

Rescue groups are already inundated with unwanted turtles, so adopting from them is a more ethical and responsible choice. By choosing to adopt, you can provide a loving home for a turtle in need, rather than contributing to the problematic pet trade.

Conclusion: Prioritizing Health, the Environment, and Animal Welfare

In summary, while turtles may seem like an appealing pet, the risks to human health, the environment, and the animals themselves are simply too great. The specialized care requirements, disease transmission, and potential for environmental harm make turtles a poor choice for most pet owners.

If you are truly committed to providing a lifetime of specialized care for a turtle, we recommend exploring adoption options from local rescue groups rather than purchasing from pet stores. By making this choice, you can help protect your own health, the health of the environment, and the wellbeing of these fascinating reptiles.

Key Considerations Before Getting a Pet Turtle

1. Turtles can transmit Salmonella, which can cause severe illness, especially in young children, the elderly, and those with weakened immune systems.
2. The sale of small turtles (with shells less than four inches long) has been banned in the U.S. since 1975 due to the health risks, but some sellers try to circumvent the law.
3. Releasing pet turtles into the wild can have devastating consequences for local ecosystems, as they can outcompete native species and spread disease.
4. Turtles require specialized care, including proper lighting, temperature, and water filtration, which many owners are not prepared to provide for the entirety of the turtle’s long lifespan.
5. Adopting a turtle from a local rescue organization is a more ethical and responsible choice than purchasing one from a pet store.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get Salmonella from just being around a turtle?

Yes, you don’t even need to handle a turtle to potentially contract Salmonella. The bacteria can live on surfaces and be transmitted indirectly, such as a parent touching a turtle and then holding a child.

Is it legal to own a small turtle as a pet?

No, the sale of small turtles (with shells less than four inches long) has been banned in the United States since 1975 due to the risk of Salmonella transmission. Some sellers try to skirt the law, but it is illegal to sell these small turtles as pets.

What happens if I release my pet turtle into the wild?

Releasing pet turtles into the wild can have devastating consequences for the local ecosystem. Invasive species like the red-eared slider turtle can outcompete native species for food and habitat, threatening biodiversity. Additionally, released turtles may carry diseases that can harm the local turtle population.

How long do turtles live as pets?

Turtles can live for decades and grow to over a foot long, making them a significant long-term commitment. Proper care, including the right lighting, temperature, and water filtration, is essential for their survival and well-being.

Thinking of getting a pet turtle?

Consider the risks to your health, the earth and the animals

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Turtles may seem like low-maintenance pets, but those about to rush out and bring one home should consider that they require years (sometimes decades) of specialized care. Turtles can also transmit disease. Like all wildlife, these reptiles belong in their natural habitats.

Adopt, don’t shop

Small animals like turtles are often mistreated and forced into deplorable conditions when they’re bred for pet stores to sell — look for a local rescue first when you’re considering adopting a hamster, and skip the pet stores.

Turtles carry salmonella

Salmonella isn’t just a food-borne illness; turtles and other reptiles carry salmonella bacteria, which can be easily transmitted to people. A small turtle may seem harmless, giving parents a false sense that they’re a safe pet for children. But the disease risk is so great that selling small turtles is illegal in the United States. (See below.)

Salmonella usually gives people a few miserable days of fever and diarrhea, but some end up in the hospital with life-threatening complications. According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), children, senior citizens and those who have lowered natural resistance to disease due to pregnancy, cancer, chemotherapy, organ transplants, diabetes, liver problems or other diseases are most at risk.

Selling small turtles is illegal

Selling small turtles—with shells less than four inches long—was banned in 1975 to prevent the spread of salmonella. The CDC says this ban “likely remains the most effective public health action to prevent turtle-associated salmonellosis.” Some sellers try to skirt the law by using the exceptions allowed for legitimate scientific and educational purposes. But just saying the turtle will be used for education or offering the turtle for free with the sale of a tank does not make it legal. In addition, some states and localities prohibit possession of turtles. Call your local animal shelter or animal control to find out about turtle ownership laws. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) enforces the ban on small turtle sales and has this advice for consumers: Don’t buy small turtles for pets.

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You don’t have to touch the turtle to get sick

You don’t have to touch the turtle to get sick, because salmonella can live on surfaces. A 2006 study published in the journal Pediatrics found that exposure to reptiles was one of the biggest risk factors in determining whether infants get salmonella. Infants aren’t likely to handle reptiles. They probably get infected indirectly, such as a parent touching a turtle or cleaning a turtle’s tank and then holding a child.

Turtles need a lifetime of specialized care

Turtles are often marketed as low-maintenance pets, but the truth is that they need special care and a lot of room to grow. Turtles will not survive in a small dish with a plastic palm tree. They need the right lighting, temperature and water filtration system. Countless pet turtles die from being kept in inadequate conditions. Turtles shipped by mail and other delivery services often die on the way.

If maintained properly, however, turtles can live for decades and grow to be a foot long. That’s a lifetime responsibility that many people are not prepared to meet. If you’ve done extensive research and are prepared for the commitment and responsibility of a turtle, we suggest you adopt one from a local animal shelter or rescue group, instead of creating more demand for turtles by purchasing one from a pet store.

Turtles should never be let loose outdoors

If you get a turtle and then decide you can’t care for the animal, there are not many options. Rescue groups are inundated with calls to take them. People sometimes turn turtles loose, thinking they are “freeing” them, but it’s typically illegal to release turtles outdoors. Turtles let loose might die, and they might carry disease that kills other turtles. If they live, they can out-compete native species for food and habitat, threatening native biodiversity. The red-eared slider turtles common in the pet trade are native to only part of the United States, but are turning up where they are not native across the country and around the globe. They are now considered among the world’s 100 most invasive species.

To protect your health, the earth and the animals, please don’t get a turtle for a pet! 

Do You Know About These Pet Turtle Requirements?

Copyright: denisgo / 123RF Stock Photo

Before you go out and purchase a turtle or tortoise, there are a few quick things you need to know first about pet turtle requirements.

Consider the following: Your turtle tank is not just merely where your turtle lives, it’s his or her living quarters, but their entire existence, from the overall enclosure, temperature, environment, decorations and accessories, the land, the water, the air, everything.

And so, if you want a suitable environment for your little turtle friend, there are some things that are going to be absolute necessities.

This article is going to tell you what those pet turtle requirements and necessities are.

Pet Turtle Necessities

What do turtles need to survive?

In order to survive, pet turtles need a big enough tank, clean water, a basking platform, and a balanced diet.

A Proper Aquarium Tank or Tub

Of all the pet turtle requirements, this may be the most important. The vast majority of pet turtle or tortoise owners opt for an aquarium or see-through tank.

Basically, anything that you can fill with water will do.

Most people opt for see-through glass turtle tanks because they want to be able to observe their turtle or tortoise during the day. Another option is to get a turtle tub. While they aren’t see through, they are usually bigger and much cheaper.

Here are a few general rules when it comes to your turtle tank.

The bigger = the better. Unlike fish, turtles do not stay the same size as their enclosure. Even if you have a small 20-gallon tank, your red-eared slider will rather quickly outgrow.

The general rule of thumb is that is for every inch of carapace shell, you need 10 gallons of water, per turtle. That means, if you’ve got two 4-inch turtles, you need at least an 80-gallon tank to properly hold them. 40 gallons for each.

If you get a tank that is too small, it will stress out your turtle and will likely cause a cloudy tank like the one in my video below.

I would strongly recommend that you start out with at least a 40 to 55-gallon tank, even if you have a smaller turtle, just because chances are he or she will get up to that size within a few years anyway.

My favorite Turtle Tank is the Tetra 55 Gallon Aquarium. You can click the picture below for more details.

While tanks are usually the most expensive item, there are still some cheap turtle tank options.

Also, you need to think about the division of water and land in your tank or aquarium.

Here’s why; some turtle species are aquatic, meaning that they should and want to spend the bulk of their lives in water. If that’s the case, you probably want to make something like a 75%/25% split between water and land.

On the other hand, some species, like most tortoises and some turtles, are mostly terrestrial. If that’s the case, you may want to opt for something more like a 50%/50% split between water and land. The water/land distribution of your tank or aquarium should be suitable for your specific turtle species.

There are a few more things to consider before we move on to the next necessity.

Think about what cover is suitable for your tank or aquarium.

Just as a precautionary measure, it might be a good idea to use a tank or aquarium cover. Whatever you do, don’t buy a glass or plexiglass cover.

The glass covers can shatter, and the plexiglass covers can melt. Both of them inhibit any UV rays that your turtle desperately needs, and both of them can adversely affect the temperature inside the tank.

Think about what substrate you want to use.

The substrate is the material or objects that lay on the bottom of the tank.

Many turtle owners don’t use any substrate. However, turtles in the wild love to dig around the dirt/clay, and putting substrate in your tank provides more of a natural environment for them.

Here are options for substrate:

Coconut Fiber Substrate

My absolute favorite substrate for turtles is coconut fiber. It is really easy for your turtle to dig around, and it doesn’t make a huge mess. Best of all, it naturally absorbs and breaks down waste which helps eliminate foul odors from your turtle tank. You can buy cheap substrate here. You can also click on the picture below for more details.

Sand

If you are a beginner turtle enthusiast, this is probably a bad choice. For starters, it’s rather difficult to keep the tank clean. You’ve got to vacuum your tank often, and it’s just, in general, a pain to deal with. If you are going to use sand however, you should use something that is very fine rather than rocky. This is, however, a good option to use in a tub or tote for a soft-shelled turtle, particularly any species that likes to dig and burro. You can buy cheap turtle sand substrate here.

Aquarium gravel

Don’t use this! It’s just a bad choice, period. In many cases the pellets resemble food and your turtle will try to eat it, and in some cases, choke to death on them. They also don’t really do much for the environment if you have any plants in the tank.

Flourite

This is not a bad option, but a few things first. Flourite is a porous type of clay gravel that is made just for aquariums and tanks. It’s excellent for aqua plants and looks very natural, but will make your tank very dirty and muddy looking when you first apply it. Make sure you filter the tank water for a few days as the fluorite particles drop to the bottom before you put your turtle back into the tank. You can buy flourite here.

Your tank is pretty important. But to sum-up:

• Buy a bigger tank or consider using a tub or tote
• Think about the water and land division check
• Think about what substrate you want to use

A Light and Heat Source

Temperature. If you get this wrong, your little turtle pal is not going to have a great existence.

There are two temperatures inside your tank or tub that you need to be aware of; the water temperature and the basking area. Both are critical.

The water temperature.

For most turtle or tortoise species you will want to keep the water temperature at around 77-80 degrees. The easiest way to do this is through the use of a submerged water heater. They are not expensive, do a good job of keeping the water warm and many of them already contain thermometers. My favorite water heater is the Tetra Aquatic Reptile Water Heater.

The basking temperature.

The basking area is the area that your turtle will go to ‘lay out in the sun.’ Turtles need to do this.

Basking is very healthy for them, and if they don’t do it they become more prone to contracting contagious diseases and infections.

Next, the light source. This is also critical.

Turtles need UV (ultraviolet) light. To be more specific, they need UVA light to maintain their appetite and metabolism, and UVB light for vitamin D3 production and stress management. Make sure any UV lamp that you have has both UVA and UVB bulbs.

Check out this article on the best UV lights for turtles for more information.

A Good Water Filter

Turtles are very messy creatures. Much, much messier than fish.

The problem is that because of this many pet turtle owners mistakenly assume that turtles and tortoises can easily live in dirty, muddy water.

Nothing could be much further from the truth.

A proper filter will do two things. One, it will maintain a clean water environment for your turtle to live in. It will also make your tank much nice to look at!

Secondly, a good filter will contain a biological medium that will be helpful for the turtle. Basically, good germs.

I personally recommend this Tetrafauna filter.

There is a lot that can be said about this subject, so if you are interested in filters, check out my article on the best filters for a turtle tank.

In general, it’s better to purchase a canister filter, as they are very powerful, easy to use and also will have multiple levels (biological, mechanical, chemical) of filtration.

A Basking Dock

Just because turtles live much of their lives in water, doesn’t mean they sometimes need to be out of the water as well.

Now, when it comes to basking docks there are quite a few options. My favorite basking dock is the Penn-Plax Floating Turtle-Pier Basking Platform. You can click on the picture below for more details.

You can also try to make on by yourself. If you’ve got a tub or tote, for instance, you can stack up some larger rocks. Just ensure that the foundation is steady and that your turtle can actually climb up onto them.

This is the area on which your UV light and heat source will shine.

Check out this article on the best basking docks for more information.

The Right Food

Lastly, your pet turtle or tortoise is going to need the proper nourishment.

Generally, most turtles and tortoises will require a balanced diet of commercial turtle pellets, plants, vegetables, and fruits as well as proteins, such as cooked meat (chicken or beef, cut up into small pieces), worms, crickets, and other insects, feeder fish, etc.

To learn more check out my article on how to feed a turtle.

Now, the exact ratio of those pellets, plants and vegetables and meat sources will differ based on the species you have.

Many tortoises, for instance, are largely herbivorous (eating plants), while many juvenile turtles will like to munch on mostly protein (as they grow larger).

Overall, most turtles and tortoises will become more herbivorous as they grow older.

Check out this article on the best turtle food for more information.

Summary

Just to recap, the five essential items in a turtle or tortoise’s environment are:

• A proper-sized aquarium tank or tub.
• UV-A and UV-B light and heat source.
• Powerful enough water filter.
• Basking dock or platform.
• Proper food and nutrition.

All of the above are necessary pet turtle requirements. They are absolutely essential.

If you are unable to or unwilling to purchase any of these items, it would be wise to perhaps seek a different pet.

Now, that doesn’t mean you need to spend a fortune, as you can purchase all of these items at a relatively inexpensive price, but that does mean that owning and caring for a turtle or tortoise requires a bit of patience, hard work, and knowledge.

I can say that at the end of it all, it will be worth it, both for you and your little turtle friend!

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Red-eared turtle: maintenance and care at home

This type of turtle is classified as a freshwater reptile. Its main feature is longish red-orange spots that are located just behind the eyes. Despite the fact that they do not have ears, they hear perfectly. Since the shield on their belly is colored bright yellow, they are also often referred to as yellow-bellies. The females of these animals are usually much larger than the males. Puberty of these animals occurs at 4 years.

Red-eared slider conditions

To keep such a reptile, you will definitely need an aquarium or terrarium, with a volume of 150-200 liters. Make sure the turtle has enough water to move freely. Ideally, the more swimming space she gets, the better.

In addition, artificial land must be created for it, on which the reptile can get out to warm itself. The island must have a sloping rise, stability, as well as the absence of burrs and sharp corners.

The island should occupy at least ¼ of the surface of the terrarium and meet certain requirements.

1. Heating . The temperature on it must be set at least 10 ° C higher than in water. Too high a temperature also does not need to be set, as the reptile can overheat.
2. Flooding . On an island, at least one side must be in the water.
3. Safety . The reptile should move freely and not get stuck between the island and the glass.
4. No toxicity . No toxic substances should be released from it.
5. Stability . The land must stand very securely, since this type of turtle is very strong and can easily turn it over.
6. Textured surface .

What do I need to buy to keep a turtle?

The most necessary things:

• 200 liter turtle tank.
• Aquarium Water Heater 100W.
• Aquarium filter (can be internal, but external is better).
• UV lamp for turtles with UVB 10%.
• Heating lamp.
• Aquarium lamp.
• Thermometer.
• Land, coast, island.

Red-eared turtle feeding

Omnivorous, feeding on a wide variety of food. Variety is important as it keeps the turtle healthy. You can feed: food for turtles, food for aquarium fish, vegetables, aquarium plants, insects, fish, invertebrates. In addition to variety, it is important to give a balanced diet high in calcium. Like all wild animals that live at home, there is a tendency to overeat.

The composition of specialized feeds is selected in such a way as to give turtles all the necessary substances. The high protein content of commercial feeds allows them to be fed in small portions.

To make the feeding more balanced, add calcium and vegetable foods and your turtle will be quite happy. Please note that calcium supplements are most often already included in commercial feeds, read the labels on the packaging.

Red-eared turtles need water to swallow because they do not produce saliva. They may take food on land, but will drag it into the water to eat. You can use this to your advantage and feed them in a separate container, so the water in the aquarium will remain clean for a longer time.

Tetra, Fiori, Sera food is perfect.

As for hibernation, which the reptile can fall into during the winter period, it is desirable to avoid it. The thing is that if you are new to keeping this type of turtle, then you may simply not have enough experience in caring for it in this period. Therefore, it is not necessary to stimulate hibernation in this reptile! Firstly, unfavorable conditions can be created for it for this period, and secondly, weakened animals may simply not survive it. To keep it from hibernating, keep the temperature at a level of at least 25 ° C, and the reptile will not even remember the long winter sleep.

Turtles that hibernate under natural conditions tend to burrow into plants or silt at the bottom of a reservoir that has a shallow depth and large dimensions. During this period, reptiles remain at the bottom all the time, oxygen is absorbed by them through membranes located in their mouth, pharynx and cloaca. In addition, the depth of the reservoir, the temperature regime and the level of oxygen in it are of great importance.

Baby care

Most turtles that appear in a home aquarium are still babies. They are still very tender and it is important to make sure they eat well and are comfortable. Cubs have a high mortality rate, are susceptible to disease, and can die for no apparent reason.

If you notice something on your turtle’s plastron, it could be the yolk sac. Newly hatched turtles consume nutrients from it and should not be removed or touched. They may refuse food during the first time, and begin to eat after the yolk sac is completely resolved.

Try not to hold small turtles in your arms. Of course, they are beautiful and elegant, but at the same time they can get scared, get stressed and get sick. Do not stand over the aquarium and do not knock on the glass, let them get used to it for a few days, start eating. It is very important that the temperature of water and air (land) be stable.

It is impossible to put an aquarium with a red-eared turtle in direct sunlight or in a draft. Make sure that she has free access to land and that this place is heated with a special lamp. Keeping temperature for baby turtles should be slightly higher than for adult turtles! This is 26-27 ^o C for water and up to 32 ^o C for land. Water should be as clean as possible and if there is no good filter, then change every couple of days

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Red-eared turtles – sizes, photos, care and maintenance at home

Content:

• Aquaterrarium
• Lighting
• Heating
• Ultraviolet
• Filtration
• Ground and decor
• Food
• Care

The red-eared turtle is a very popular and relatively unpretentious species, which is often kept at home. Let’s take a look at who the red-eared turtles are, why they are interesting, and how to equip a terrarium if you decide to get an unusual pet.

Red-eared turtles are native to North America, where they live in stagnant fresh water bodies: shallow lakes, ponds, swamps. They got their name because of the long red stripes on the head, just behind the eyes. In some subspecies, however, these stripes are yellow. The shell diameter of an adult turtle can reach 30 cm, which must be taken into account when choosing an aquaterrarium. The store sells babies, no more than 5 cm. These are very young individuals, with fragile immunity. Therefore, you should carefully consider the purchase, transportation and arrangement of housing for the turtle.

Aquaterrarium

All aquatic turtles, including red-eared turtles, are kept in aquaterrariums . There are ready-made options, or you can convert a regular aquarium. An adult needs an aquarium of at least 150 liters . A smaller aquarium is suitable for young people, pay attention to the ready-made Tetra ReptoAquaSet, which includes a 78-liter aquarium, a filter, an island and LED lighting.

Turtles do not care about depth, but they love to swim, so you should focus on the bottom area. Turtle terrariums are often made open-air, so make sure there are no drafts in the area where you set them up. The aquarium is installed on a stable flat surface, for example, on a special cabinet.

Lighting

fluorescent or LED aquarium lamps are used as illumination . They give even light over the entire area of ​​​​the terrarium and practically do not heat up. The length of daylight hours for red-eared turtles should be 10-12 hours.

Heating

The capacity is divided: two thirds should be water and one third – land (island) . In the aquaterrarium for turtles, it is necessary to create a “sunny” and “shadow” zone. The fact is that reptiles cannot maintain their body temperature on their own and are looking for a suitable place to warm up or, on the contrary, take a break from the heat. To organize heating, the following is required equipment :

• Aquarium heater
• Heating infrared or ceramic lamp for reptiles
• Water thermometer
• Solar zone thermometer

Adult turtles are quite strong and can move equipment and even damage it, so try to put the heater and thermometer in a place where the turtle cannot climb. The water temperature is maintained at 25°C. A heating lamp is placed above the island at a distance of about 30 cm from the shell. The thermometer is mounted inside the aquarium, at the level where the turtle will sunbathe. Here the temperature is maintained at 28-30°C. The heating lamp turns on during the daytime. However, at an unstable temperature, if the temperature in the apartment drops to 20 ° C or lower, it should be left on around the clock.

Ultraviolet

Aquaterrarium must have UV lamp . It is installed above the island next to the heating lamp and should be lit during daylight hours. These lamps promote the synthesis of vitamin D, the absorption of calcium and phosphorus. There are UV lamps for various purposes. Reptile lamps that are UVB 5.0 must be selected. Lamps with UVB less than 5% produce practically no ultraviolet, and 10% or more are designed for desert dwellers.

Filtration

Aquaterrarium needs a powerful filter. It can be put on the bottom if the water level is low. It is advisable to use a filter with a glass, since turtles spoil the sponge with their claws, or remove the filter under the island, in a place inaccessible to the turtle. For convenience, you can use Tetra ReptoDecoFilter , which acts as a decorative island and filter.

Ground and decor

Complete Terrarium decorations – stones, driftwood, artificial plants. They should be without sharp edges and not interfere with the movement of the pet in the water. It is also worth making sure that the decor does not create narrow niches in which the turtle can get stuck.

Soil is poured in a layer of about 1.5 cm. It is advisable to use rounded pebbles with an average fraction of 5-10 mm. The soil not only plays an aesthetic role, but also serves as a substrate for beneficial bacteria, thanks to which the water stays clean longer.

Power supply

The red-eared turtle is considered a predator, but its needs change with age. In the first two years of life, turtles feed exclusively on animal food. During this period, they can be fed with a specialized Tetra ReptoMin Baby diet, which takes into account age requirements and is ideally suited for babies in size. You can also add tubifex, bloodworm, shrimp to the food.

Closer to two years, the turtle’s diet changes. Plant components appear in it, and their proportion gradually increases. The turtle can be switched to a new food – Tetra ReptoMin Junior, which takes into account the needs and size of the pet in this period of life. Along with live food, it is worth starting to introduce vegetable supplements: scalded lettuce and nettle, duckweed or richcia.

When the shell diameter reaches 12 cm, the turtle is transferred to an adult diet. Animal and vegetable food is given in a ratio of 50:50. Tetra ReptoMin Complete Adult Tortoise Food takes into account changing needs. Additionally, you can enter both animal and vegetable top dressing.

Turtles need to be fed in the water, they are not adapted to eat on land. Improper feeding can be stressful, and some individuals refuse to take food on land. The frequency of feeding depends on age: babies up to a year are fed twice a day, then they switch to one meal, and it is enough to feed adults 2-3 times a week.

Maintenance

If all the requirements for keeping and feeding are met, caring for a turtle is incredibly simple and does not require much effort. Once a week it is necessary to wipe the glass, siphon the soil and change 1/3 of the water. Water can be prepared without settling with Tetra ReptoSafe conditioner . It instantly removes salt, heavy metals from the water, and also enriches it with vitamins, minerals and protects the mucous membranes from a possible drop in water parameters.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell? With proper care, the smell should not appear. Make sure that the pet has enough water, a powerful filter, everything is eaten when feeding, the food does not float for a long time in the water.