Do muzzles stop dogs from barking: Please Don’t Use a Dog Muzzle for Barking — Here’s Why
Please Don’t Use a Dog Muzzle for Barking — Here’s Why
We’re going to be right up front with you about how we feel about using muzzles to stop dogs from barking. Muzzles have one primary purpose: To stop dogs from biting people, other dogs, and other animals. We do not recommend using muzzles to stop a dog from barking.
If you have problems with a barking dog, you will find many other more humane and effective ways to train your dog to know when it is OK to bark and when he needs to be quiet. In fact, we recommend you start by reading about our train, treat, repeat approach to teaching dogs how to obey.
Many times when dog owners resort to muzzles to silence barking dogs, we find that the problem is with the human, not the canine. To train a dog to learn the difference between good and bad behaviors, the keys are consistency, patience, repetition and combining all of that with the right dog training tools.
That said, we are not 100% anti-muzzle. We are pro-proper use of a muzzle. In short, we recommend using muzzles:
- To stop dogs that nip or bite at people and other animals, especially while you train them to modify this behavior
- To temporarily quiet or calm a dog that aggressively barks at your visitors or guests, again especially if you use it in conjunction with behavior modification
- If the muzzle properly fits and allows the dog to drink water, pant, and eat; more on this below
Are There Different Types of Muzzles?
Yes, you will find a variety of muzzles in your pet supply stores. Consult with your vet about a muzzle and which might be the appropriate type for your pet. It is vital to your dog’s well-being and health that the muzzle you select is well-fitting and permits your dog to pant easily, take treats, and drink water.
This type of muzzle resembles a basket and is typically made from plastic, wire, or leather. Unlike other kinds of muzzles, this style allows your dog to continue to open and close his mouth, so make sure it is the right muzzle for what you need.
Made from strong breathable mesh, this type of muzzle is softer and not as prominent as other muzzle styles. Owners and trainers of short-snout breeds often choose a mesh muzzle for dogs that can’t fit a traditional muzzle.
Although this muzzle type is made from soft material like nylon, it requires a tight fit and can inhibit your dog’s ability to pant, eat and drink. Look for a soft muzzle that protects your dog’s health and allows her to pant and drink water.
Whether your dog is a greyhound, mastiff, or pug, muzzle manufacturers offer breed-specific muzzles that can provide a better fit for your dog, are minimally restrictive, and protect him from overheating.
What Are Dog Muzzles Best Used For?
We subscribe to the ASPCA’s position on training aids and methods for dogs, which is using “… humane training (that) does not inflict unnecessary distress or discomfort on the pet. Humane training makes primary use of lures and rewards such as food, petting and play.”
Muzzles are best suited for short-term solutions to protect you, your family and visitors from aggressive dogs that bite and nip. Use the muzzle while you are working on behavior modification with our train, treat, repeat methodology.
The dog routinely displays aggressive behavior
If your dog has a history of aggression toward other canines or people, a properly fitted muzzle can reduce risk and make certain situations, such as walking in the park and entertaining guests, more comfortable. However, we recommend pairing the muzzle with training, treating, and repeating your dog to behave the way you want him to. And never leave a muzzle on a dog longer than your veterinarian recommends.
A trip to the vet or groomer causes a dog to freakout
A visit to the vet or groomer can throw the most well-behaved dog into a frenzy and bite those trying to help him. If your dog is known to display this out-of-character behavior in these scary or distressing situations, a muzzle can eliminate risk while allowing the pet care professionals to do their job.
Traveling via public transportation in foreign countries
When traveling on public transportation in countries like Germany, France, Greece, and Ireland, you will be required to muzzle your dog. Before you plan any overseas or out of the country travel, check the requirements not only for the destination but also the United States’ requirements for animals entering the country. You can start with the CDC’s guide to traveling with pets.
It’s the law (breed-specific legislation)
Some states and locales have specific breed legislation that mandates the use of a muzzle while the dog is in public places. For more information regarding the laws in each state, visit BLScensus.com.
Muzzle or Bark Collar — Which is Better?
If you’re having issues with your dog constantly barking, never look to a muzzle as a solution. The purpose of a muzzle is to prevent a dog from biting; they are not intended, nor are they useful as anti-bark training tools. Bark collars on the other hand, may be a successful tool to get a dog to stop barking, although these devices have their pros and cons, which you can read about in our guide to bark collars.
With advancements in technology, today’s bark collars come in various styles; static (shock), vibration, spray (citronella or lemon scent), and ultrasonic. When your dog barks, the collar emits an unpleasant stimulus that causes your dog to pause his barking. This moment allows you to reinforce your dog’s quiet behavior with a verbal command followed by a reward, like his favorite treat. When used with positive reinforcement, a bark collar can be effective at correcting your dog’s unwanted behavior — barking.
With a muzzle, there is no stimulus-command-reward opportunity.
How Can I Get My Dog to Stop Barking?
You can do several things to help your dog stop barking:
- Ensure he gets plenty of physical and mental exercise.
- Never yell at him when he’s barking.
- Be consistent in your training. Always offer a reward and praise.
- Practice patience.
- Read our guide to dog barking.
In addition to bark collars, you will find humane alternatives to muzzles, including our own ultrasonic training tool, The BarxBuddy. This is a hand-held device that is easy and safe to use. Your dog doesn’t need to wear a collar or other equipment, and it can be used up to 40-60 feet. The BarxBuddy puts the control in your hands without making your dog uncomfortable. You determine when to quickly press the button so the device can emit a high-frequency sound only animals can hear that will stop your dog from barking. When he quiets down, address him with a verbal cue like “quiet” and offer a reward.
Are Dog Muzzles Bad for Dogs?
A muzzle can protect your dog, other canines, or people when you use it correctly. However, they come with some warnings:
- Muzzles are designed and intended for short periods. Depending on the outdoor temperature and your dog’s activity level, that might be as short as 15 minutes, but no more than an hour. Check with your vet.
- An ill-fitting muzzle can induce chafing, overheating, or cause your dog to develop a negative association with the device.
- You must monitor your dog’s breathing any time he is muzzled. Any sign of distress, remove the muzzle.
- A dog should drink .5 to 1 ounce of water per day per pound of body weight; the muzzle should not get in the way of your dog’s ability to drink water.
For More Advice on Dog Training
Learn more about the BarxBuddy ultrasonic training tool, which is designed to help you stop unwanted behaviors from your dog using a humane, safe and effective training device.
Explore our dog blog and learn more about training, grooming and other pet-related topics, and browse our shop, which contains innovative pet products hand-selected by our team.
8 Simple Ways to Keep Your Dog From Barking – Pet Health Center
Dogs bark to communicate with each other and with their owners, but sometimes all that barking can get out of hand. Constant barking can fray a family’s nerves and create turmoil in a neighborhood.
But keep in mind that your dog is trying to tell you something by barking. Before you quiet him down, you will first need to figure out what he’s trying to say.
What’s Behind the Barking?
These are some of the reasons dogs bark:
- To protect their territory. Dogs guard their territory from people, other dogs, and animals. That territory includes your property, but it can also include other places where the dog has spent a lot of time.
- Because they sense danger. The dog could be reacting to an alarming situation.
- To communicate. Sometimes dogs bark to get attention from people.
- Out of frustration. Barking can result from becoming frustrated by a situation, such as being in a confined space or being unable to locate an owner or playmate.
- Because they’re anxious. A dog’s anxiety can be caused by separation from the dog’s owner.
- Because they’re in pain. Barking can communicate pain caused by injury or illness.
- To say hello. A friendly bark could be how a dog greets people or other dogs.
Tips to Get Your Dog to Stop Barking
There are a lot of stop-barking devices available on the market. The most commonly known are bark collars that deliver an electric shock, high-pitched squeal, or stinging spray of citronella mist whenever a pet dog barks. Other devices include ultrasonic emitters that are placed in a room and activated by barking and muzzles that keep the dog’s jaws held shut.
These devices may offer a short-term fix, but they do nothing to address the underlying cause of your dog’s barking. Eventually, the problem may surface through other behavioral problems, as your dog continues to try to communicate his need or problem to you. A dog prevented from barking caused by separation anxiety may instead take to destroying furniture or urinating indoors when his owner is away.
The devices also can be inhumane. Any dog’s bark can set off a bark collar or ultrasonic device, meaning your dog may end up receiving punishment for another dog’s behavior. Also, a muzzle will keep a dog from being able to eat, drink, and cool off through panting.
For these reasons, an owner frustrated by his dog’s barking is better off using some simple tricks to head off the behavior or taking the time to train the dog out of the behavior. Try these tips:
- Offer distractions. Bored dogs will be less inclined to bark if they are given plenty of toys to play with. If your dog is barking due to outside noises, playing the TV or radio while you’re away can drown out those sounds. A TV or radio also can help soothe separation anxiety.
- Keep your dog active. A pooped pooch is less likely to overreact with a barking fit. Take your dog on regular walks or play fitness games like fetch or Frisbee.
- Work your dog’s brain. Obedience training, either in a class or at home, can improve your dog’s ability to discern threats. It also can lay the groundwork for other anti-barking solutions that require more intensive training.
- Desensitize your pet. If the barking fits are being caused by an outside stimulus, you can try to desensitize your dog. For example, ask friends to walk by your house while you work with your dog inside, encouraging your pet to be quiet.
- Teach the “quiet” command. Train your dog to respond to the word “quiet” by allowing three or four barks, then saying “quiet” in a calm, clear voice. When you say “quiet,” break the barking jag by holding his muzzle gently, dropping a loud object that distracts him or squirting him in the face with a spray bottle of water. In this instance, you could use a manually-controlled bark collar as a distraction method. Eventually your dog will learn that “quiet” means he should stop barking.
- Change up his routine. A dog barking compulsively or out of boredom might stop if you make some changes. If he is being kept in a backyard and barking there, bring the dog indoors and place him in a crate. If the dog is barking because he’s confined in a crate, try leaving him free in one room of your house.
- Teach her how to meet and greet. A dog that barks when greeting can be trained to meet people and other dogs more gently. Be sure to keep greetings at your front door very low-key and calm. Keep a toy near the door and encourage your dog to pick it up and hold it in his mouth before opening the door. On walks, distract your dog when passing other people or dogs by offering a tasty treat.
- Don’t reward barking. Above everything else, don’t inadvertently encourage barking through your own behavior. Don’t reward barking by giving the dog a treat after he has barked. Only treat when the dog has been quiet. Also, don’t encourage barking at outside noises by asking, “Who’s there?”
Training can be a lengthy process, but in the end you will improve your relationship with your dog and be better able to make sure his needs are met.
15 Methods To Stop Your Dogs Barking
Your dog is barking and your neighbor has given you an ultimatum. Or maybe you’ve received notice from animal control. At this stage, you’re at wit’s end on how you should handle your dog’s incessant barking.
The good news is that there are ways to reduce, if not eliminate, your dog’s barking. The bad news is that while there might be quick fixes, they are harsh and can be dangerous or cruel to the dog. The good news is that there are kind methods for dealing with barking that will work. Let’s look at them all.
What it Requires
Muzzling requires a muzzle made to fit over the dog’s nose and mouth, preventing him from opening his mouth to bark. There are two types of muzzles: a cage-type muzzle that allows a dog to breathe and open his mouth and a muzzle that keeps the dog’s mouth closed so that a veterinarian or other person can easily work on the dog without getting bitten.
Both are not made to prevent barking but have been used to try to prevent barking in the past. The theory is that a dog can’t open his mouth and therefore can’t bark.
When it is Useful
Muzzles are used normally to prevent a dog from biting. Veterinarians and animal control often use muzzles on frightened or injured pets to avoid getting bitten while moving them or while performing certain procedures. Muzzles are generally not used in controlling barking.
The muzzle method is definitely out, although people have used muzzles to try to keep their dogs quiet. The problem with a muzzle is that your dog can still vocalize (whine, cry), can’t eat or drink, and can easily overheat while wearing a muzzle according to Margaret H. Bonham, author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Dog Health and Nutrition. According to Ms. Bonham dogs have been severely injured or killed wearing a muzzle longer than the intent.
What’s more, leaving a muzzle on a dog is cruel. It may be tempting to use at first, but it isn’t a good solution. Plus once the muzzle is off, your dog can bark again.
You’re likely to have a frightened dog rather than one who is quiet. You should not leave the muzzle on long, nor should you leave a dog wearing a muzzle unattended as he could get injured easily. So, this method doesn’t work and is dangerous. You should not use this method at any time to stop barking.
5 Best Dog Muzzles For Barking You Can Buy Right Now [& Guide]
Just like you, I feel so pleased watching my little friend bark, drink, or chew away at the treats she loves. That’s why I agree that the thought of sealing off her mouth sounds a little scary, even though it’s temporary.
But as I later found out, that may not be a bad thing after all. I’m sure none of us would hesitate to do something to protect or maintain the well-being and safety of our dog plus her immediate surroundings.
Well, that’s pretty much what dog muzzles do. They are devices that can help you temporarily manage excessive barking, biting, or chewing in dogs.
Consider aggressive behavioral tendencies, a grooming session, or emergencies that could make your dog agitated. Without a muzzle, your dog could possibly end up biting you or those around her.
Besides, in the United States, some municipal governments actually have laws that regulate/prohibit ownership of some breeds which they label as vicious. In such environments, a dog muzzle is a necessity.
That said, I’m sure you would be interested to learn more about dog muzzles for barking or chewing. In this article, I’ll show you how to pick the right one for your dog and what best options are available right now.
Contents & Quick Navigation
Overview of The Best Dog Muzzles For Barking
PetSafe Gentle Leader Headcollar
Four Paws Walk-About Quick-Fit Dog Muzzle
PROGUARD Pet Products Short Nose Dog Muzzle
OmniPet Italian Basket Dog Muzzle
How To Choose The Right Dog Muzzle
Since dogs have to eat, drink, and pant, it follows that you shouldn’t severely restrict their mouths from doing any movements. Even if those behaviors are excessive, it wouldn’t be right to treat a dog muzzle as a long-term solution since the device’s role is to simply manage the conditions.
That’s why, as a pet parent looking to use this gadget, you should know how to get your dog accustomed to it and also learn when to use it.
Below is a video by DomesticatedManners created to help you teach your pup to love wearing a muzzle.
As for how long your dog should wear it, there’s no specific answer to that as this will vary based on things like temperature, type of activity, how active she is, and health conditions, among other factors. You can learn more about that from expert guides.
That aside, when you finally go shopping, here are the two most important things you should keep in mind:
Canine anti-bark muzzles are available in two major forms:
Soft muzzle sleeve/wrap
Just as the name suggests, basket muzzles are woven and have plenty of space and ventilation to allow your dog to pant and move her mouth. Some are specially designed to allow your pet to eat and drink but not to bark or bite.
They are available in plastic, rubber, and metallic forms.
Soft muzzle sleeve/wrap is the type that restricts movement, thus preventing your dog from panting, eating or drinking. It’s recommended that you never leave your dog alone with this type of muzzle.
They are available in nylon, mesh, and leather forms.
In order to identify a muzzle that will fit your dog well, you will have to take some measurements into consideration. Get the length of her snout and neck plus the circumference of the area right below her eyes.
Give an allowance of about half an inch for each of the measurements. If not sure how to do it, learn from the video below by eHowPets:
youtube.com/embed/wtLNkOOJA74?rel=0&modestbranding=0&controls=0&showinfo=1&fs=1&wmode=transparent&start=undefined” data-src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/wtLNkOOJA74?rel=0&modestbranding=0&controls=0&showinfo=1&fs=1&wmode=transparent&start=undefined” allowfullscreen=”” name=”fitvid1″ frameborder=”0″/>
Reviews of the Best Dog Muzzle For Barking
With all that I’ve mentioned in mind, combined with help from dog lovers and a several vets, I was able to narrow it down to five anti-bark muzzles that I believe would be a great option for your dog. Check them out:
Four Paws Walk-About Quick-Fit Dog Muzzle
Generally speaking, muzzles do no sit very well with most dogs because they probably see it as a foreign object that is out to strip away their freedom. So when a muzzle is put on a dog’s snout, which is a vital area for any pooch, it is not surprising that your furry pal is likely to protest.
Four Paws Walk-About Quick-Fit Dog Muzzle has a practical design that will restrict barking, chewing, or biting yet allow your pooch the freedom to drink and pant away.
Some dog muzzles can look cruel, but the Four Paws Walk-About Quick-Fit has been designed for effectiveness, ease of use, and relative comfort for your pooch. It has minimal straps and therefore is very easy to get on your dog.
Dogs, being the smart creatures they are, often figure out how to remove a muzzle and bury it somewhere where you are not likely find it again. This muzzle, however, in its simplicity, is hard to remove even by the craftiest of dogs.
You can buy it from any leading online outlets such as chewy.com.
Made out of durable nylon which is tough
Adjustable and has minimal straps
Tough to remove–professional handlers love it
Baskerville Ultra Dog Muzzle, Black
Because of the cage-like design, the Baskerville Ultra Dog Muzzle almost looks menacing. It gives the impression that you are being unkind to your canine pal as if he is Hannibal Lecter.
But you have to remember that you still need a dog muzzle to temporarily stop barking and control other activities such as biting and chewing. Your muzzle should also be the kind that doesn’t impair other vital functions such as drinking and panting.
Well, this dog muzzle is extremely effective, despite its menacing look. If you happen to be traveling on public transportation with your buddy, this muzzle will work well.
Also, the cage-like appearance allows your pooch to wear this muzzle comfortably for longer periods such as when exercising or going for long walks.
Quite importantly, the Baskerville Ultra is roomy enough to allow your pooch to lick on a wound if she needs too. This muzzle can be bought from any leading online outlets such as chewy.com.
It is soft and lightweight
Hard rubber cage ensures durability
Adjustable head and neck straps as well as neoprene padded lining for more comfort
Proguard Pet Products Short-Nose Dog Muzzle
Dogs are differently shaped depending on breed. Some breeds are flat-faced or have short snouts, like boxers and pugs. This one-size-fits-all muzzle is easy to use and holds fast, thanks to the quick release tabs.
Not only is it a favorite with flat-faced doggy parents but also pet groomers. The Proguard Short-Nose muzzle does a great job of protecting the vet or groomer when working on a pooch. It can also be worn any time when you need to restrict barking.
This muzzle is constructed using mesh material that allows your dog to breathe comfortably. It also comes with a 12-inch nylon strap that fits behind the ears. However, unlike most muzzles that cover the mouth and nose area, this muzzle will cover the eyes as well.
It contains a “blinder” that can also be used to further restrict vision. It is important to point out that you should always stay close to your canine pal when she is wearing this muzzle.
The Proguard muzzle for flat-faced dogs can be bought from any leading online outlets such as chewy.com.
OmniPet Italian Basket Dog Muzzle
Most of us tend to be skeptical about plastic dog muzzles because they have a tendency to break as a result of exposure to changes in extreme weather. Well, not the OmniPet Italian Basket because it’s constructed from flexible polyethylene that is hard and durable.
This material can withstand changes in extreme temperatures without breaking. Its adjustable leather strap allows you to find the right fit for your pooch so that the muzzle fits comfortably.
I know some of you are not overly enthusiastic about this design, but truthfully speaking, it is quite practical and very effective.
For example, the muzzle has a few design surprises that allow your dog even more comfort in spite of her size. With 10 sizes to choose from, you can be sure that you will find the right fit for your pooch.
What’s more, every size increases by one half to one inch, thus allowing some extra room for your pooch to pant more comfortably.
Should you feel that your mutt needs further access to drink water or feed, the front grills of the muzzle can be opened.
Although the cage may look restrictive, it has been designed with adequate space and features to enhance comfort while controlling biting, chewing, and barking for a short duration.
If you want to buy this product, you can get from leading online outlets, such as chewy.com.
Front grills can be opened for more access
Tough durable material that does not break easily
Adjustable leather strap for a better fit
PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD
If you find it hard to muzzle your dog under any circumstances, then perhaps the next thing you might want to consider is the PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar.
Many have found it helpful in their quest to have better control of their pup when going for walks. The design aspect alone drastically reduces lunging, jumping, and excessive barking.
Most doggy parents aren’t too thrilled at the thought of using a standard collar and harness. This is because your pooch tends to pull and tug in the opposite direction. But looking at the way an ordinary harness is designed, the pulling effect often ends up applying unwanted pressure to your dog’s throat, which is simply not comfortable.
The mechanics behind the PetSafe Gentle Leader are totally different and here’s how.
It will help calm your aggressive or anxious dog during a walk because the design allows communication in a way that your pooch understands. By gently placing pressure on calming points, this headcollar effectively eliminates the natural tendency of your dog to pull, and it does so without too much effort.
Besides, this device is designed to remove pressure from the throat and instead places gentle pressure at the back of the neck. Basically, it works like a halter.
Putting on the nose loop on your dog allows you easy control. The dog can instinctively understand a command from a gentle tug without discomfort. Where you direct his nose, his body will follow.
You can find this product from reliable online pet stores such as chewy.com
Fully adjustable neck strap and nose loop
Design removes pressure from your dog’s throat
Easy-to-use and features a tutorial DVD
I still see lots of pet parents on dog forums asking “Do muzzles stop dogs from barking?” If you wonder the same thing, the idea of getting a dog muzzle for your little fellow now makes sense more than ever.
It’s even great to note that today, we have pretty great muzzles designed to manage your dog’s unusual barking, biting, or chewing without being tough on their freedom.
As you prepare to purchase one, make sure you’ve enlightened yourself with as much relevant information as possible about how they work, when to use them, and for how long. Already, you have a solid basis to build on from the information I shared earlier.
Don’t forget to only purchase from reliable and leading online pet stores, like chewy.com, as they tend to stock all the varieties available from different brands and also give you all the key information you may require about a particular product.
Problem Barking Solved! | Modern Dog magazine
How many times have you observed this scenario? A dog gets excited and starts to bark. The owner begins to frantically yell at the dog, “No! Stop that!” Instead of becoming quiet, the dog begins to bark even more excitedly, and his master must now escalate his actions, and may ultimately resort to physical violence against his pet to try to achieve some quiet
The real problem here is that the dog’s master does not understand the basics of dog language. To a dog, loud, short words like “No!” “Shut up!” “Don’t bark!” and so forth sound just like barks. Think of it this way: the dog barks to signal a potential problem. Now you (who are supposed to be leader of his pack) come over and also bark. This clearly indicates that you agree that this is the right time to sound the alarm, so the dog moves his barking to an even higher level.
Many different techniques have been tried to stop dogs from barking. They range from staring directly into the dog’s eyes in a threatening manner and shaking the dog to methods involving water pistols and squirt bottles, lemon juice sprays, muzzles, adhesive tape, rolled magazines, rattle cans and electric collars. Sometimes these work, but more often they don’t. Even when they do work, such methods tend to be harsh and can damage the relationship between dog and master.
To try to stop barking you must first understand what it means. The dog is barking to communicate something that he feels is relevant to the pack. Usually he is warning his loved ones that he senses danger or something else that requires action. Imagine what goes through the dog’s mind when his act of devotion is met by violence. Aggressive responses to communications that were meant to be helpful are bound to damage future relationships between the person and the dog. Furthermore, these “corrections” only provide a short-term solution to a problem that is easily solved if you understand canine communication patterns.
Wild canines, such as wolves, do not bark much as adults but they do bark as puppies. In the safety of the den area there is little harm in such noise; however, as the puppies grow older and begin to accompany the adults on hunts, such barking becomes counterproductive. A wolf puppy or adolescent who barks at an inappropriate time can alert potential prey that the pack is near, or attract the attention of other, larger predators. To stop this, a simple communication pattern has evolved. It obviously does not involve barking or any loud sound signal, since the goal is to stop noise. The signal also doesn’t involve direct aggression since nipping or biting the barker is apt to cause yelps of pain, growls, or dashing around to avoid or counter the aggressor’s physical violence. This would be just as likely to alert other animals as the original barking itself.
The procedure worked out by wild canines to stop barking is quite simple. Namely, a more dominant animal places its mouth over the offender’s muzzle, without actually biting, and then gives a short, low, breathy growl. The low growl will not be heard very far, and it is short in duration. The mouth over the muzzle is not actually inflicting pain, so there is no yelping or attempt to escape. Silence usually follows immediately.
Humans can mimic this behaviour to stop barking when the dog is nearby. With your dog sitting at your left side, slip the fingers of your left hand under the collar at the back of your dog’s neck. Pull up on the collar with your left hand, while your right hand folds over the top of the dog’s muzzle and presses down. In a quiet, businesslike and unemotional tone, you simply say, “Quiet.” Your left hand on the collar immobilizes the head. Your right hand serves the same function and communicates the same message as the leader’s mouth over the noisy animal’s muzzle. The softly spoken “Quiet” mimics the short, low and breathy growl. Repeat this silencing manoeuvre whenever it is necessary. Depending upon the breed, it may take anywhere from two to a couple of dozen repetitions to associate the calmly stated command, “Quiet,” with an end to barking.
Be sure, however, that you only use this procedure to stop a dog from barking when barking is excessive or unnecessary. Remember that we specifically bred dogs to bark, so if your dog sounds the alarm at the approach of a stranger, or even at the sight of a cat outside of your window, don’t correct him, just call him to your side and give him a quick pet or a rub, and maybe a quiet “Okay.” He will often stop by himself once you acknowledge the situation. By barking, your dog is only doing the job that humans designed him to do thousands of years ago. ■
Stanley Coren is a Professor of Psychology at the University of British Columbia and author of many books on dogs, including How to Speak Dog and Pawprints of History. His website is www.stanleycoren.com
Barking | ASPCA
Barking is one of many forms of vocal communication for dogs. People are often pleased that their dog barks, because it alerts them to the approach of people to their home or it tells them there’s something that the dog wants or needs. However, sometimes a dog’s barking can be excessive. Because barking serves a variety of functions, you must identify its cause and your dog’s motivation for barking before you can treat a barking problem
Each type of barking serves a distinct function for a dog, and if he’s repeatedly rewarded for his barking—in other words, if it gets him what he wants—he can learn to use barking to his benefit. For example, dogs who successfully bark for attention often go on to bark for other things, like food, play and walks. For this reason, it’s important to train your dog to be quiet on cue so that you can stop his attention-related barking and teach him to do another behavior instead—like sit or down—to get what he wants.
Many owners can identify why their dog is barking just by hearing the specific bark. For instance, a dog’s bark sounds different when he wants to play as compared to when he wants to come in from the yard. If you want to reduce your dog’s barking, it’s crucial to determine why he’s barking. It will take some time to teach your dog to bark less. Unfortunately, it’s just not realistic to expect a quick fix or to expect that your dog will stop barking altogether. (Would you expect a person to suddenly stop talking altogether?) Your goal should be to decrease, rather than eliminate, the amount of barking. Bear in mind that some dogs are more prone to barking than others. In addition, some breeds are known as “barkers,” and it can be harder to decrease barking in individuals of these breeds.
Why Dogs Bark
Dogs can bark excessively in response to people, dogs or other animals within or approaching their territories. Your dog’s territory includes the area surrounding his home and, eventually, anywhere he has explored or associates strongly with you: your car, the route you take during walks and other places where he spends a lot of time.
If your dog barks at any and every noise and sight regardless of the context, he’s probably alarm barking. Dogs engaged in alarm barking usually have stiffer body language than dogs barking to greet, and they often move or pounce forward an inch or two with each bark. Alarm barking is different than territorial barking in that a dog might alarm bark at sights or sounds in any location at all, not just when he’s defending familiar areas, such as your house, yard or car.
Some dogs bark at people or other animals to gain attention or rewards, like food, toys or play.
Your dog might be barking in greeting if he barks when he sees people or other dogs and his body is relaxed, he’s excited and his tail is wagging. Dogs who bark when greeting people or other animals might also whine.
Some dogs bark excessively in a repetitive way, like a broken record. These dogs often move repetitively as well. For example, a dog who’s compulsively barking might run back and forth along the fence in his yard or pace in his home.
Socially Facilitated Barking
Some dogs barks excessively only when they hear other dogs barking. This kind of barking occurs in the social context of hearing other dogs, even at a distance—such as dogs in the neighborhood.
Some dogs bark excessively only when they’re placed in a frustrating situation, like when they can’t access playmates or when they’re confined or tied up so that their movement is restricted.
Other Problems That Can Cause Barking
Illness or Injury
Dogs sometimes bark in response to pain or a painful condition. Before attempting to resolve your dog’s barking problem, please have your dog examined by a veterinarian to rule out medical causes.
Excessive barking due to separation anxiety occurs only when a dog’s caretaker is gone or when the dog is left alone. You’ll usually see at least one other separation anxiety symptom as well, like pacing, destruction, elimination, depression or other signs of distress. For more information about this problem, please see our article, Separation Anxiety.
What to Do About Your Dog’s Excessive Barking
The first step toward reducing your dog’s barking is to determine the type of bark your dog is expressing. The following questions can help you to accurately decide on which type of barking your dog is doing so that you can best address your dog’s problem. Think about your answers to these questions as you read through the information below on the different types of barking and their treatments.
- When and where does the barking occur?
- Who or what is the target of the barking?
- What things (objects, sounds, animals or people) trigger the barking?
- Why is your dog barking?
If It’s Territorial Barking or Alarm Barking
Territorial behavior is often motivated by both fear and anticipation of a perceived threat. Because defending territory is such a high priority to them, many dogs are highly motivated to bark when they detect the approach of unknown people or animals near familiar places, like their homes and yards. This high level of motivation means that when barking territorially, your dog might ignore unpleasant or punishing responses from you, such as scolding or yelling. Even if the barking itself is suppressed by punishment, your dog’s motivation to guard his territory will remain strong, and he might attempt to control his territory in another way, such as biting without warning.
Dogs engage in territorial barking to alert others to the presence of visitors or to scare off intruders or both. A dog might bark when he sees or hears people coming to the door, the mail carrier delivering the mail and the maintenance person reading the gas meter. He might also react to the sights and sounds of people and dogs passing by your house or apartment. Some dogs get especially riled up when they’re in the car and see people or dogs pass by. You should be able to judge from your dog’s body posture and behavior whether he’s barking to say “Welcome, come on in!” or “Hey, you’d better hit the road. You’re not welcome at my place!” If you’re dealing with a dog in the first category, follow the treatment outlined in this article for greeting barking (below). If you’re dealing with a dog in the latter category who isn’t friendly to people, you’ll be more successful if you limit your dog’s ability to see or hear passersby and teach him to associate the presence of strangers with good things, such as food and attention.
For treatment of territorial barking, your dog’s motivation should be reduced as well as his opportunities to defend his territory. To manage your dog’s behavior, you’ll need to block his ability to see people and animals. Removable plastic film or spray-based glass coatings can help to obscure your dog’s view of areas that he observes and guards from within your house. Use secure, opaque fencing to surround outside areas your dog has access to. Don’t allow your dog to greet people at the front door, at your front yard gate or at your property boundary line. Instead, train him to go to an alternate location, like a crate or a mat, and remain quiet until he’s invited to greet appropriately.
Alarm barking is very similar to territorial barking in that it’s triggered by sights and sounds. However, dogs who alarm bark might do so in response to things that startle or upset them when they’re not on familiar turf. For example, a dog who barks territorially in response to the sight of strangers approaching will usually only do so when in his own home, yard or car. By contrast, a dog who habitually alarm barks might vocalize when he sees or hears strangers approaching in other places, too. Although territorial barking and alarm barking are a little different, the recommendations below apply to both problems.
If your dog continues to alarm bark or bark territorially, despite your efforts to block his exposure to sights and sounds that might trigger his barking, try the following techniques:
- Teach your dog that when someone comes to the door or passes by your property, he’s permitted to bark until you say “Quiet.” Allow your dog to bark three to four times. Then say “Quiet.” Avoid shouting. Just say the command clearly and calmly. Then go to your dog, gently hold his muzzle closed with your hand and repeat “Quiet.” Release your dog’s muzzle, step away, and call him away from the door or window. Then ask your dog to sit and give him a treat. If he stays beside you and remains quiet, continue to give him frequent treats for the next few minutes, until whatever triggered his barking is gone. If your dog resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence above. Do the same outside if he barks at passersby when he’s in the yard.
- If you prefer not to hold your dog’s muzzle or if doing so seems to scare your dog or make him struggle, you can try a different method. When your dog barks, approach him, calmly say “Quiet,” and then prompt his silence by feeding him a steady stream of tiny, pea-sized treats, such as chicken, hot dogs or bits of cheese. After enough repetitions of this sequence, over several days or more of training, your dog will begin to understand what “Quiet” means. You’ll know that he’s catching on if he consistently stops barking as soon as he hears you say “Quiet.” At this point, you can gradually extend the time between the cue, “Quiet,” and your dog’s reward. For example, say “Quiet,” wait 2 seconds, and then feed your dog several small treats in a row. Over many repetitions, gradually increase the time from 2 seconds to 5, then 10, then 20, and so on.
- If the “Quiet” procedure is ineffective after 10 to 20 attempts, then allow your dog to bark 3 to 4 times, calmly say “Quiet,” and then immediately make a startling noise by shaking a set of keys or an empty soda can filled with pennies. If your dog is effectively startled by the sound, he’ll stop barking. The instant he does, call him away from the door or window, ask him to sit, and give him a treat. If he stays beside you and remains quiet, continue to give him frequent treats for the next few minutes until whatever triggered his barking is gone. If he resumes barking right away, repeat the sequence. If this procedure doesn’t work after 10 to 20 attempts, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) for guidance.
- If your dog barks at people or other dogs during walks, distract him with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best.) Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.
- It may help to have your dog wear a head halter at times when he’s likely to bark (for example, on walks or in your house). A halter can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
- If your dog most often barks territorially in your yard, keep him in the house during the day and supervise him when he’s in the yard so that he can’t just bark his head off when no one’s around. If he’s sometimes able to engage in excessive alarm barking (when you’re not around, for example), that behavior will get stronger and harder to reduce.
- If your dog most often barks territorially in your car, teach him to ride in a crate while in the car. Riding in a crate will restrict your dog’s view and reduce his motivation to bark. If crating your dog in your car isn’t feasible, try having your dog wear a head halter in the car instead. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
“Go to Your Spot” Training
It also helps to teach your dog a specific set of behaviors to do when people come into your home so that he has fewer opportunities to alarm bark. Plus, when your dog performs his new behaviors and receives rewards, he’ll learn that people coming into his and your space is a good thing.
- Before you can train your dog to go to a spot and stay there when a door opens, you’ll need to teach him how to sit or lie down and then how to stay. After your dog has learned these skills, you can progress to Step 2.
- Identify a place in your home where you’d like your dog to go when people come to the door. If possible, choose a place that’s at least eight feet away from the front door but still within sight. It might be a spot at the top of a set of stairs, inside the doorway of an adjacent room, your dog’s crate, or a rug positioned at the far corner of an entryway or foyer.
- Say “Go to your spot,” show your dog a treat, and then throw the treat onto the spot where you’d like your dog to go. Repeat this sequence 10 to 20 times. By the tenth time, try pretending to throw the treat so that your dog begins to move toward the spot on his own. As soon as he’s standing on his spot or rug, throw him the treat. As your dog catches on, you can stop making the fake throwing motion with your arm and just give him the cue, “Go to your spot.” Then wait until he does and reward him.
- Once your dog is reliably going to his spot, vary where you are when you send him there. Practice asking him to go to his spot from many different angles and distances. For example, say “Go to your spot” when you’re standing a few steps to the left of it. After a few repetitions, move a few steps to the right of the spot and say, “Go to your spot” from that position. Then move to another area in the room, then another, etc. Eventually, practice standing by the front door and asking your dog to go to his spot, just as you might when visitors arrive.
- When your dog masters going to his spot, start asking him to sit or down when he gets there. As soon as your dog’s rear end hits the floor on the spot, say “Yes!” and reward him with a tasty treat. Then say “Okay,” and allow him to move off the spot. Repeat these steps at least 10 times per training session.
- Now add stay into your exercise. Stand next to your dog’s spot. Ask him to sit or lie down, say “Stay” and wait one second. Then say “Yes!” or “Good!” and give him a treat. After you deliver the treat, say “Okay” to release your dog from the stay and encourage him to get off the spot. Repeat this sequence at least 10 times per training session. Progressively increase from one second to several seconds, but vary the time so that sometimes you make the exercise easy (a shorter stay) and sometimes you make it hard (a longer stay). If your dog starts to get up before you say “Okay,” say “Uh-uh!” or “Oops!” and immediately ask him to sit or lie down on his spot again. Then make the exercise a little easier the next few times by asking your dog to hold the stay for a shorter time. Avoid pushing your dog to progress too fast or testing him to see how long he can hold the stay before getting up. This sets your dog up to fail. You want him to be successful at least 8 out of 10 times in a row.
- When your dog can consistently stay on his spot for at least 30 seconds, with you standing in front of him, you can start moving toward the door. Say the cue “Go to your spot,” walk with your dog to his spot, ask him to sit or lie down and ask him to stay. At first, just turn your head away from your dog. Then turn back to give him a treat and release him from the stay. After a few repetitions, make things a little harder. After your dog is sitting or lying down on his spot, ask him to stay and then take one step toward the door. Return immediately, give your dog a treat and then release him from the stay with your release word or phrase. Gradually increase the number of steps that you take away from your dog and toward the door. Eventually you’ll be able to walk all the way to the door and back while your dog stays sitting or lying down on his spot. (Don’t forget to keep rewarding him for staying!) If your dog stands up or leaves his spot before you release him from the stay, say “Oops!” the moment he gets up. Then immediately tell him to sit or lie down on his spot again and stay. Wait a few seconds and then release him. You may have progressed too fast. Next time, make the exercise a little easier so your dog can succeed. Ask him to stay for a shorter period of time and don’t move as far away from him. When he’s successful at an easier level, you can gradually make the exercise harder again. Never end your dog’s stay from a distance. Instead, always return to him, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and then say “Okay” to release him.
- When your dog can consistently stay in a sit or a down on his spot for 30 seconds, while you turn away and walk to your front door, you can start to introduce some distractions. Tell your dog to stay, and then do something distracting. At first make your distractions mild. For example, start by bending down or doing a single jumping jack. Over many sessions of training, gradually intensify your distractions to things like running a few steps or tossing a treat on the floor. Reward your dog quickly after each distraction for holding the stay. If he breaks the stay, quickly say “Uh-uh,” ask him to sit or lie down on his spot, and try again. When your dog can stay while you do all sorts of distracting things, ask him to stay while you go to the front door of your home and pretend to greet someone there. Your goal is for him to learn to stay the entire time you’re at the door.
- The next step in “Go to Your Spot” training is to recruit friends and family to help you conduct mock practice visits. Arrange to have someone come to the door. You will work with your dog to help him stay on his own. Be prepared! This will probably take a long time the first few visits. When you open the door, one of two things can happen. Sometimes you leave your dog there on his spot while you talk to the person at the door, as if your visitor is a courier or delivery person. Your dog never gets to say hello. (However, you, the person or both of you should frequently toss treats to your dog to reward him for staying.) At other times, invite the visitor in. Wait until the person sits down somewhere, and then release your dog to join you and your guest. When you have a friend help you with a mock visit, be sure to repeat the scenario over and over, at least 10 to 20 times. Practice makes perfect! Have the person come in for 5 to 10 minutes or just pretend to deliver something, then leave for 5 to 10 minutes, then return for a second visit, and so on. Your dog should experience at least 10 visits in a row with the same person. With each repetition, it will become easier for him to do what you expect because he’ll be less excited by the whole routine—especially when it’s the same person at the door, over and over again.
- Continue to recruit people to help you practice “Go to Your Spot” exercises until your dog reliably goes to his spot and stays there until you release him by saying “Okay.” At this point, your dog should be able to perform his new “Go to Your Spot” skill perfectly about 90 percent of the time during training sessions. The hardest part for your dog will be going to his spot and staying there in real-life situations, when he hasn’t been able to do a few warm-up repetitions. To prepare your dog for times when real visitors arrive, ask friends who already know your dog well to drop by randomly when you’ll be home. Then ask friends who don’t know your dog well to drop by. With plenty of practice, your dog will be able to go to his spot and stay there, even when neither of you knows who’s at the door!
- Eventually, when real visitors come to your home, you can ask your dog to go to his spot as soon as they knock or ring the doorbell. After letting your guests in, ask them to sit down. Wait about one minute before releasing your dog from his spot to greet them. Put your dog on a leash if you think he might jump on your guests or behave aggressively. After a minute or two of allowing your dog to greet people, ask him to lie down at your feet and stay. Give him something to keep him busy, such as a rawhide or a puzzle toy stuffed with something really tasty, like low-fat cream cheese, spray cheese or low-fat peanut butter, frozen banana and cottage cheese, or canned dog food and kibble. After your dog finishes with the rawhide or the KONG, he’ll probably go to sleep. If you repeat the ritual above for a while, your dog should learn to settle down calmly when guests visit your home.
If you need help teaching your dog these skills, don’t hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist in your area. A professional trainer can meet with you one-on-one to guide you through the process of teaching your dog to sit, stay and go to a spot on command. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these experts near you.
If your dog barks at people coming to the door, at people or dogs walking by your property, at people or dogs he sees on walks, and at people or dogs he sees through the fence, and his barking is accompanied by whining, tail wagging and other signs of friendliness, your dog is probably barking to say hello. He most likely barks the same way when family members come home.
- Keep greetings low key. Teach your dog to sit and stay when meeting people at the door so that he has something to do instead of barking. This will reduce his excitement level. First teach him to sit and stay when there aren’t any people at the door so that he knows the behavior well before you ask him to do it with the distraction and excitement of real visitors arriving.
- If your dog likes toys, keep a favorite toy near the front door and encourage him to pick up the toy before he greets you or guests. If he learns to hold a toy in his mouth, he’ll be less inclined to bark. (He’ll probably still whine, however).
- On walks, teach your dog that he can walk calmly past people and dogs without meeting them. To do this, distract your dog with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best). Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he’s walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark.
- It may help to have your dog wear a head halter at times when he’s likely to bark (for example, on walks or in your house). A halter can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him.)
One reason that it’s so easy to live with dogs is that they’re very expressive. They find a way to let us know their needs. They often do this by barking or whining. Indeed, we find it desirable when they bark to ask to go outside to eliminate or to request that their water bowl be filled. It’s less attractive, however, when your dog barks to demand anything and everything, needed or not! This pattern of barking does not happen by accident. A demanding, noisy dog has been taught to be this way, usually not on purpose! To get your dog to stop, you’ll need to consistently not reward him for barking. Don’t try to figure out exactly why he’s barking. Ignore him instead. Treatment for this kind of barking can be tough because, most of the time, pet parents unwittingly reinforce the behavior—sometimes just with eye contact, touching, scolding or talking to their dogs. To dogs, all of these human behaviors can count as rewarding attention. Try to use crystal-clear body language to tell your dog that his attention-seeking barking is going to fail. For example, when your dog starts to bark for attention, you can stare at the ceiling, turn away from your dog or walk out of the room. The instant your dog stops barking, ask him to sit and then give him what he wants, whether that’s attention, play, treats, to go outside or to come in.
To be successful, try your best to NEVER reward your dog for barking at you again! In some cases, it’s easiest to teach your dog an alternative behavior. For instance, if you don’t want your dog to bark when he needs to go out or come in, get a doggy door installed or teach him to ring a bell hanging on a door by touching it with his nose or paw. If your dog barks to get you to play with him, teach him to bring a toy and sit in front of you. Sometimes, it’s easier to avoid problems by eliminating the things that cause your dog to bark. If your dog barks to ask you to retrieve his toys from under the sofa, block the space so that the toys don’t get stuck beyond his reach. If your dog barks at you when you’re talking on the telephone or working on the computer, give him a tasty chew bone to occupy him before he starts to bark.
You can also teach your dog to be silent on command. This will help strengthen the association between quiet behavior and attention or rewards. Your dog should always be quiet before receiving attention, play or treats. By giving your dog a guaranteed method of getting attention, he’s no longer forced to bark for attention. Regularly seek your dog out to give him attention—sweet praise, petting and an occasional treat—when he’s not barking.
Dogs occasionally become compulsive barkers, meaning they bark in situations that aren’t considered normal or they bark in a repetitive, fixed or rigid way. If your dog barks repeatedly for long periods of time, apparently at nothing or at things that wouldn’t bother other dogs, such as shadows, light flashes, mirrors, open doors, the sky, etc., you may have a compulsive barker. If your dog also does other repetitive behaviors like spinning, circling or jumping while barking, he may be a compulsive barker. To help reduce compulsive barking, you can try changing how you confine your dog. For instance, if your dog is tied or tethered, you can switch to keeping him loose in a safe fenced area, or if he’s left alone for long periods of time, you should increase exercise, mental stimulation and social contact.
If you suspect that your dog is a compulsive barker, we recommend that you seek guidance from a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a veterinary behaviorist. If you can’t find a behaviorist, you can seek help from a Certified Professional Dog Trainer, but be sure that the trainer is qualified to help you. Determine whether she or he has education and experience treating compulsive behavior, since this kind of expertise isn’t required for CPDT certification. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, to locate one of these behavior experts in your area.
Socially Facilitated Barking
Dogs are social animals, so it’s natural for them to bark when they hear others barking. You can discourage this tendency by keeping your dog indoors when other dogs are barking, by playing music to drown out the sound of other dogs, and by distracting your dog with treats or play when other dogs bark (whether it’s in real life or on TV).
Excitement or Frustration Barking
Dogs often bark when they find themselves excited but thwarted, or frustrated, from getting to something they want. For example, a frustrated dog might bark in his yard because he wants to get out and play with children he hears in the street. A frustrated dog might bark and run the fence line with the dog next door, or bark by the patio door while watching a cat or squirrel frolicking in his yard. Some dogs bark at other dogs on walks because they want to greet and play, or they bark at their caretakers to get them to move faster when preparing to go for walks. The most effective means for discouraging excitement or frustration barking is to teach a frustrated dog to control his impulses through obedience training. You can teach your dog to wait, sit and stay before gaining access to fun activities like walks, playing with other dogs or chasing squirrels. This can be a daunting task, so you may need the assistance of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer to help you. Please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about finding a CPDT in your area. You can also discourage the presence of cats and other animals in your yard by using motion-activated devices to startle intruders.
A variety of devices are designed to teach dogs to curtail barking. Most often, these are collars that deliver an unpleasant stimulus when your dog barks. The stimulus might be a loud noise, an ultrasonic noise, a spray of citronella mist or a brief electric shock. The collars that deliver noise are ineffective with most dogs. One study found that the citronella collar was at least as effective for eliminating barking as the electronic collar and was viewed more positively by owners. Virtually all dogs become “collar-wise,” meaning that they learn not to bark while wearing their anti-bark collars but revert to barking when they’re not wearing them. Collars that work on a microphone system to pick up the sound of a dog’s bark should not be used in a multidog home because any dog’s bark can activate the collar.
Anti-bark collars are punishment devices and are not recommended as a first choice for dealing with a barking problem. This is especially true for barking that’s motivated by fear, anxiety or compulsion. Before using an anti-bark collar, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist or a qualified Certified Professional Dog Trainer for guidance.
What NOT to Do
- Do not encourage your dog to bark at sounds, such as pedestrians or dogs passing by your home, birds outside the window, children playing in the street and car doors slamming, by saying “Who’s there?” or getting up and looking out the windows.
- Do not punish your dog for barking at certain sounds, like car doors slamming and kids playing in the street, but then encourage him to bark at other sounds, like people at the door. You must be consistent!
- Unless a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist advises you to do otherwise, never use punishment procedures if your dog is barking out of fear or anxiety. This could make him feel worse and, as a result, his barking might increase.
- Never use a muzzle to keep your dog quiet for long periods of time or when you’re not actively supervising him. Dogs can’t eat, drink or pant to cool themselves while wearing muzzles, so making your dog wear one for long periods of time would be inhumane.
- Never tie your dog’s muzzle closed with rope, cord, rubber bands or anything else. Doing this is dangerous, painful and inhumane.
The muzzle as a potential solution to your barking dog problem
This page is part of Section One:
the Your Dog section of barkingdogs.net
A muzzle is a device that fits around a dog’s nose and prevents him from opening his mouth beyond a certain point. It may be ill-advised, immoral and, in some places, illegal, but it is possible to prevent a dog from barking by using a muzzle.
There are several styles of muzzles, which are manufactured using fabric, wire, leather or some combination of the three. Dogs come in different sizes with snouts of various lengths, so muzzles come in a number of configurations that correspond to those various shapes and sizes.
With most dogs, if you fit them with the proper muzzle in the appropriate size, you can get it just right so that the dog will be able to drink, breathe, and pant in a normal fashion, but will not be able to get his mouth open wide enough to bark. Therefore, it is possible to use a muzzle as an anti-barking device, and there was a time when they were commonly employed for that purpose. But times have changed and perspectives have shifted to the point that it is now considered cruel to muzzle a dog for an extended period of time.
It is also considered dangerous, and in some places it is illegal to leave a muzzled dog unattended. Of course, that pretty much rules out the use of a muzzle as a means of quieting a dog, because you don’t need it if you are there with the animal, and you’re not allowed to leave it on him if you are not.
It is really not much of a loss, however, because a muzzle is a miserable way to quiet a dog in any case.
In fact, in terms of desirability, it is far better just to take the time to bark train your dog. If for some reason that is not a possibility for you, your next best bet is to fit the animal with an Electronic Collar.
The Dog Science Network also sponsors a course in dog training, featuring a free workshop in canine
socialization, as well as an advanced course in obedience training, street safety, and watchdog work.
This page is part of Section One:
the Your Dog section of barkingdogs.net
90,000 How to wean a dog from barking in the house?
Barking is one of the ways of dog communication. However, if in the wild, somewhere in the wilderness, the barking of dogs does not bother anyone, then the barking of a pet can interfere with both the owner and the neighbors around him. This is the reason why it is important to train your dog not to bark at home. But if the dog is taken from a shelter or from an owner who did not pay enough attention to raising a pet, the new owner will have to wean the dog from an unnecessary habit in the house.There are several ways to stop barking from your dog. How to wean a dog from barking in the house?
One of the rules of is not to praise a dog if it barks at rustles outside the door. Also, do not praise your pet if he barks when he meets the owner from work.
The next way is teaching the command “Quiet!”. As soon as the dog starts barking, the owner must strictly say “Quiet!” If the pet understands the command the first time, praise him and give him some groundbait. The second version of the command’s voice acting is as follows: when pronouncing the word “Quiet!” you can turn your dog’s attention to a favorite toy.You will have to do this every time the pet starts barking, until the animal realizes that it is loved. If your pet does everything right, you need to play with him. If these options do not help, there is a third option for teaching this command – to use a spray bottle or a glass of water when voicing the command. As soon as the dog barks, command “Quiet!”, And sprinkle water on its face. It is important that there is only water in the spray bottle or glass, no other solutions.
The next command for weaning the dog to bark is the command “Go check!” .It is used when the animal is afraid of something or someone. The owner takes any object in front of which the dog is not afraid. Drawing the pet’s attention to himself, the owner slowly puts the item on the floor. After the owner of the animal orders “Go check!” and slowly moves away from the subject. After the command, the dog must approach the subject to get to know it better. In the case when the pet is not in a hurry to approach the subject, it cannot be adjusted. With the help of this command, the owner will help the dog gain self-confidence and get rid of fears.
The muzzle blocks the pet’s face and prevents the possibility of barking. Can be combined with teaching the command “Quiet!” As soon as the dog starts yapping, the owner gives the command “Quiet!”, If the dog does not understand, the owner puts on a muzzle.
If the dog barks when the owner is not at home, then this can also be corrected. To do this, the owner, in his presence, leaves the dog in one of the rooms of the apartment and closes one there for a few minutes. In the case when the pet begins to bark, you should go into the room and punish him with a light slap with a newspaper rolled into a tube.Walk out the door again. The dog stopped barking, sitting alone – the owner should praise it and give bait. Each time, you should increase the time the pet is in the room, bringing it to 2 hours.
You can use various herbal tinctures to balance the emotional state of your pet.
There are also less humane ways of weaning a dog from yapping. One of them is the use of the Antilai collar. Such a collar, as soon as the dog begins to breach, first emits a warning signal.If the dog continues to bark, the collar will emit a weak electrical shock. However, this can cause negative emotions of the animal in relation to its owner.
There are collars that, with intense barking, emit unpleasant odors into the dog’s face. They are harmless to the dog’s health.
The cardinal solution to dog barking is to cut the vocal cords. It is used only in cases where the animal, even after prolonged training by previous methods, continues to pester everyone with its barking.
In order to wean a dog from barking, the owner needs to have enough patience and love for his pet. The owner must be well versed in the causes of the dog’s barking, be able to correctly respond to the yapping of the animal.
Even the “legal” barking of a dog, if it violates the rights of others, can be limited by a court decision.
“Dear editors! In our house number 10, box. 3 on the street Shchuseva’s neighbor bought a dog. While the hostess was not working, the dog did not cause any inconvenience to anyone, in any case it did not bother with barking. Now, as soon as Marina is outside the door (she got a job), the dog begins to bark, apparently, has got used to the “nanny”, bored. And we have to suffer all day.
The owner of the dog does not react to our remarks. We are elderly people, we get nervous from constant barking, our blood pressure rises, our head hurts.In the next apartment there is an eight-month-old child, during the day he practically does not sleep from constant barking, another neighbor cannot rest before work, on his night shift. The house is blocky, audibility, as they say, “you sneeze – they wish you health behind the wall.”
We contacted Rospotrebnadzor, they replied that they are not involved in such matters. They wrote a statement to the district police officer, he accepted it, but said that “the dog can be kept in the house and it is not written in the law to punish the owners for barking.”
But why should we live like hell? The dog barks for three months, in the summer it was still possible to leave the apartment, to be on the street longer.And now where to go? ”
Indeed, it is up to the owner to keep the dog in the apartment or not. And the law does not prevent this. Barking to a dog can hardly be prohibited either – any rules are powerless against the laws of nature. And there is no administrative responsibility for the fact that the dog barks. The precinct is right. But this does not mean that animal owners can violate the rights of their neighbors on a “legal” basis. Article 17 of the Housing Code clearly sets out the legal framework for the use of residential premises.The use of residential premises should be carried out taking into account the observance of the rights and legitimate interests of citizens and neighbors living in this residential premises. The same is stated in Article 293 of the Civil Code, which even provides for the possibility of selling residential premises at a public auction, the owner of which systematically violates the rights of neighbors. At the same time, the legislation does not contain any restrictions on the concept of violation of the rights of neighbors. Anything can be suitable for such a violation – from systematic bays and drunken nocturnal brawls to the seemingly harmless barking of a dog that makes the life of neighbors unbearable.But this is an extreme measure, which can only be used as a last resort, when no other means can bring the neighbor into the framework of lawful behavior.
There is another possibility to “correct” the behavior of neighbors. True, in this case you will have to go to court. Scientifically, this is called a “negative claim” and the right to it is spelled out in Article 304 of the Civil Code: “The owner can demand the elimination of any violations of his rights, even if these violations were not combined with the deprivation of ownership.”This means that if the systematic barking of a neighbor’s dog really interferes so much that it does not allow you to fully enjoy your own home, you have the right to ask the court to oblige the neighbor to eliminate such violations in any reasonable way you suggest. For example, remove the dog from the apartment at a certain time, or oblige to put on a muzzle on it, if this will have the desired effect, or perform noise isolation. The choice of a way to eliminate the violation of the right is limited only by a reasonable and legal framework.The method, of course, is cumbersome and troublesome, since you, as a plaintiff in the case, will have the obligation to prove the validity of your claims and, above all, the existence of the violation of the law itself. And here your appeals, albeit unsatisfied, to Rospotrebnadzor, to the district police officer, to the management company will be very useful. The testimony of your neighbors – witnesses in the case will also be adequate evidence.
Deputy of the Duma of Veliky Novgorod, lawyer
90,000 where to complain, how to resolve a conflict
Does a neighbor’s dog scare you and your children with its barking, and interfere with sleep at night?
The time has come for your active action.
Consider all the ways you can make your neighbor’s pet silent without harming the animal, you and its owner.
Legislative regulation of the issue
Who is to blame for the constant barking of a dog from an apartment or house / plot of neighbors? Definitely – this is the fault of the owner of the beast. After all, acquiring a pet, a person begins to bear all kinds of responsibility for it – legal, administrative and even criminal. In this regard, the maintenance of any pet should not go against the rules of public life.This aspect applies to everything – feeding, walking, training, being in public places, etc.
There are many legislative aspects in the Russian Federation that neighbors should rely on.
After all, they all also regulate the rules for keeping pets:
- Constitution of the Russian Federation;
- of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation;
There are also several Federal Laws :
- “On the protection of animals”;
- “On Veterinary Medicine”;
- “On the maintenance and care in cities.”
In accordance with the existing legislation on keeping pets, can be distinguished several basic principles:
- Pet cruelty is unacceptable.
- Ensuring the safety of the surrounding citizens.
- Taking into account the rights of neighbors is important.
- There is a liability for violators.
- In the event of harm caused by a dog, citizens are entitled to compensation for the damage.
- Responsibility of the pet owner to neighbors for the damage caused.
- Taking part in activities for the protection of animals of various social organizations.
Possible causes of incidents
There are several common reasons why a neighbor’s dog might bark:
- If the animal is kept outdoors, it may do so out of boredom. A howl, whining is added to the classic barking. Most often terriers, German shepherds, Rottweilers bark. That is, there is only one reason – the beast lacks activity and movement.
- Some pets are easily irritable, so they can bark at any moving objects, whether animate or inanimate. There is a solution – a special training by the owner.
- They also bark because of discomfort. For example, if the dog is too hot or too cold. Many people are convinced that dogs have a very warm coat that can warm them up at any temperature. In fact, this is not the case, the only exception is Laika and some representatives of northern breeds.
- Abuse. If the pet is beaten, pushed, starved, not taken out for a walk, then he also begins to bark. There is only one solution here – contacting animal welfare specialists or community organizations.
An important role in the actions of neighbors is played by the duration of the dog’s barking. It’s one thing when it is observed in the daytime, when almost everyone is at school / work, and lasts a couple of minutes.
And it is quite another matter when the pet barks systematically throughout the day .
In the first case, you can hardly do anything, because all dogs bark, this is their nature. And in the second situation, the law will be completely on your side.
Ways to resolve the conflict
There are several measures to take if your neighbor’s dog barks constantly.
They are divided into peaceful ways of solving the problem and less loyal ways:
- Conversation with a neighbor. You should not immediately run to the police and take extreme measures.One conversation with your pet owner may be enough to resolve this issue. It is worth communicating with him in a friendly and respectful way, especially if you are in a good relationship with him. In no case do not threaten the law, this will only worsen your relationship and is unlikely to solve the problem. If the owner is an adequate and decent person, he himself will be ready to do everything to solve the problem in a peaceful way.
- Reaching mutual agreement. Instead of waiting for the weather by the sea, it’s worth taking some kind of practical solution to the problem that will secure you a winning position.For example, if a dog barks in the yard of a private house, delicately ask your neighbor to keep the dog in the house at night. If she barks during the day, ask the owner to make a booth for the animal so that the dog is comfortable.
- Enlist the support of other neighbors. If the owner of the dog ignored your wishes and requests, in this case, you can involve other neighbors in the process. You just need to chat with other people who live nearby and find out their opinion on this matter. If several people talk to the owner of the dog at once, most likely he will take note of the comments and begin to correct the situation.
Applying to law enforcement agencies
If the neighbor still does not understand your claims, and you did not manage to come to a mutual agreement, the time has come for drastic measures:
- Inquire about laws related to the barking dog in your neighborhood. You can find a lot of laws, regulations, regulations. To give your neighbor one last chance for correction, show him the set of laws you have found, perhaps he will get scared and persuade you not to contact the police, promising to resolve the issue peacefully.
- Call law enforcement and report constant noise. You should find out exactly who in the city is responsible for resolving such issues, and then file a corresponding complaint. In many localities, this can be done anonymously. Most likely, in the coming days, the employees of these bodies will visit the disturbing neighbor and his pet and, after assessing the situation, will make a definite decision.
- Contacting the animal control department, in which you can also report insufficiently good treatment of the animal.This action is useful if you are sure that the dog is barking due to poor treatment. Most likely, the animal will be taken away from the owners, but in practice this is done very rarely. Most often, experts provide instructions on how to handle a pet.
- Ask other neighbors to support you and make a similar complaint. The likelihood that the issue will be resolved in your favor will increase if several calls with complaints are received by law enforcement agencies.
- Filing a claim in small claims court.There are stubborn owners who, even after meeting with law enforcement officers, are not ready to resolve the situation and do not take people’s requests seriously. So, if other measures do not help, you can file a corresponding statement of claim in small claims court. Your task is to prove the fact that barking interferes with normal life.
What animal owners can do
If the owners themselves are aware of the seriousness of the situation and are ready to solve the problem, there are several ways of action:
- Contacting an animal training service and training the owner in basic dog handling.Ideally, you should learn this from a very early age of the dog, because if you let the process take its course, the situation will worsen.
- Use of silent whistles. As for the effectiveness of these devices, there are many reviews that contradict each other, but many note their effectiveness. These devices emit sounds that are not perceived by humans in any way, but are well heard by animals. Each time you bark, you can use a whistle, which will later wean the dog from barking constantly.
- Application of the sound training system. This is one of the most advanced technologies that allows the beast to be silenced. However, the system operates on the same principle as the whistle. Immediately, we note that the results may be different, since the system is not relevant for all varieties of dogs.
- Restriction of the pet’s field of view. If he is aroused and makes a barking sound every time he tracks movement, fencing off the line of sight will allow you to fix this problem once and for all.For example, you can increase the height of the fence or block off areas that are outside the dog’s line of sight.
Whichever method of influencing the animal you choose, you should understand that the first thing to do is to identify the cause of the barking. You may not have to take drastic measures, but it will be enough just to neutralize the causative factor.
There are several other problems , which in practice often arise among decent citizens with neighbor dogs:
- the animal goes for a walk without a muzzle;
- relieves the need for an entrance or under the windows of residents;
- rushes at people.
Let’s look at each of these situations in more detail to get a general idea of what you can do.
Walking without a muzzle
Only dogs of a large breed need a muzzle, you must agree, if we are talking about a poodle or a terrier, it would be foolish to put them on protective equipment.
If a pet goes out for a walk without appropriate equipment and at the same time behaves inappropriately, neighbors have the right to complain to law enforcement agencies. But first it is worth coming to a peaceful agreement with the owner of the dog.
If an animal walking without a muzzle is completely calm and does not rush at people, most likely the case will turn out to be not in favor of the complainants.
“Gadit” at the entrance
If the dog solves his “dog affairs” in the entrance, which is a common area, the principle of action of the neighbors remains the same. First you need to talk to the careless owner and find out about his position on this matter. And then, if he ignores the appeal, file a complaint with law enforcement agencies.
So we examined the basic procedure for citizens’ actions if the neighbor’s dog is constantly barking.
Conflict situations with neighbor pets are considered in the following video:
90,000 For a walk. Meeting dogs, greeting ritual – Dogfriend Publishers
Dog for a walk: why is the ritual of greeting relatives so important, how does it happen, what affects it and how to avoid aggression when meeting dogs?
The greeting is a real dialogue.Seeing each other at a great distance, the dogs begin to reach out to each other, exchanging signals of reconciliation.
According to research, dogs show a variety of signals of reconciliation when preparing for a meeting. Most often this is licking, yawning, and head turning. The gaze is directed to the side. Some dogs slow down or start sniffing the ground, change their trajectory to approach in an arc. The set of signals is individual in each specific situation.So, for example, if there is no way to slow down the pace, dogs try to change the trajectory of movement or begin to lick their lips. In the dark, dogs use more visible signals, such as sitting down or lying down. The puppies do the same, preparing for a meeting with an older dog [1, 2].
The influence of the environment on the course of the meeting of dogs
Meetings of freely walking dogs most often proceed peacefully, since in this case the animals behave naturally, consistently performing the entire chain of polite movements.At the same time, friendly dogs remain together, and those who are unpleasant to each other disperse a sufficiently large distance so as not to create conflicts. You can observe such dog communities even in the city, somewhere on the banks of rivers, in the forest or in the field, where dogs are used to walking freely and are not strongly influenced by their owners during meetings.
During meetings in a city park, where dogs are on leashes and are strongly influenced by the owner, a completely different situation can develop.
A leash that is too short (less than 3 meters) does not provide the dog with enough space to perform all the necessary rituals. Muzzles, halts, strict collars and strangleholds also interfere with contact and often lead to aggression, since they strongly affect the physical and mental well-being of both the dog itself and the oncoming . In addition, all of these tools physically interfere with the communication of dogs. Scented, dogs, dogs painted in unnatural colors, as well as dogs with amputated tails and ears can also cause a negative reaction from relatives, since body odors, tail movements, as well as the general appearance of the dog are actively involved in communication.We humans often do not think about it, because we perceive our habits and whims in caring for a dog as a special expression of love. Dogs perceive this as something unnatural and disturbing.
The dog instantly adopts the mood of the owner’s (friendly, aggressive, fearful, irritable, etc.) and begins to react to a relative in the same way as the owner himself. A frightened owner seeks to pull his dog away from another dog, small dogs are often taken in his arms.One of the owners suddenly decides to prohibit the meeting when another dog is already very close: he pulls the leash, pulls the dog away by the collar, or simply expresses his displeasure in a rude voice. All of this disrupts the greeting and irritates both dogs. In addition, the dog often develops a negative association of meeting with the owner’s behavior:
as soon as I meet another dog, my owner interferes with me or even worse:
as soon as I meet another dog, my owner gets angry with me and hurts me .So, seeing a relative from afar, the dog begins to get noticeably nervous.
Recently, while walking, we met the owner with a dwarf schnauzer on a leash. As we approached each other, the dogs began a greeting ritual. I noticed that when approaching my dog, the schnauzer began to shake and bend to the ground. Then his master bent down, grabbed him by the scruff of the neck and tried to press him to the ground, “informing” him in such a way that he did not dare to greet him. The dog screamed as if in hysterics.My dog started moaning too, as if she had been hurt too.
Attempts to say hello to very small dogs often end in groans of dogs from what is interrupted by the hostess, who begins to “save” her baby, picking him up and waving away the oncoming dog.
For some reason, owners of large dogs also often try not to allow encounters with other dogs. Their dogs begin to desperately reach out to their relatives and bark desperately: strong constant frustration during walks made many of them nervous (we used to say “aggressive”) on a leash.
How should the owner behave when meeting dogs?
Gathering the owner should be calm and friendly, giving his dog enough space to get to know each other and not interfering with the meeting. It is important to avoid negative emotions of the dog associated with meetings with relatives. If your dog has an unfavorable meeting, you will most likely notice signs of stress – frequent licking, yawning, scratching, shaking [4, 5]. Distract her attention and calm her down in an affectionate voice so that she will soon forget the trouble and not create a negative association of unpleasant sensations with the appearance of relatives.
Having experienced unsuccessful encounters many times, the dog begins to get irritated at the sight of another dog: it develops a negative association with other dogs – the so-called “aggression on a leash.” In addition, she may begin to fear the behavior of the owner during the meeting .
Danger of meeting
The face of a friendly dog is relaxed, the mouth is open.
Signals of reconciliation are not always a guarantee that the meeting will be peaceful. Mild agitation, expressed as signals of reconciliation, can suddenly turn into aggression.Therefore, when approaching dogs, it is important to evaluate their general appearance. Friendly-minded dogs approach each other with a relaxed tail wagging and with a slightly open mouth . And vice versa: a dog with constrained movements, a closed mouth, a slightly lowered head and a fixed gaze promises trouble. If you have to walk past such a dog, take your dog on a short leash, stand between it and the unfriendly dog, and walk past it without stopping. It is advisable that you are as far away from it as possible, and your path passes in an arc.
Of course, we have the right to prevent our dog from contacting others, if we deem it necessary. So, for example, I would not allow my dog to meet with a dog belonging to an aggressive owner, as his dog may also be aggressive. The danger can come from animals traumatized by mistreatment of their owners and brutal training, including guard training, training using electroshock collars, participation in battles. Owners who expose their dog to such stress, as a rule, have little understanding of the psychology of dogs in general and treat the dog quite aggressively.They cannot be expected to raise a truly socially competent dog and take care of its mental health. Their dogs either have not learned to communicate with their relatives at all, or have lost their social competence. They can also be in a state of chronic stress, overexcited and frightened so that they can show aggression even on insignificant or even barely noticeable reasons for us.
Here the dog demonstrates readiness for aggression.
But no matter how we worry about the health of our pets and no matter how skeptical we are towards other dogs, it is important to remember that the constant lack of the opportunity to communicate with relatives will inevitably lead our dog to strong frustration, and our dog, deprived of necessary social contact, will begin to suffer already at the sight of another dog.
The boxer barked and thrashed about on a leash. Therefore, his owner was convinced that her dog was aggressive and deliberately kept her away from other dogs. Noticing the boxer’s signals of reconciliation, as well as common body language, I asked the owner for permission to come closer with my dog and asked her to loosen the leash so that the dogs had more space. We began to slowly approach the boxer. As soon as my dog was next to the boxer, the boxer stopped barking, both dogs lowered their noses to the ground and so, sliding their noses over the asphalt, slowly approached each other.Approaching close, they greeted and continued to stand quietly next to them until they were distracted by other business.
The Swedes were the first to understand the need for social contact between dogs. Swedish law on keeping animals obliged owners to provide their dogs with the opportunity to communicate freely with other dogs at least twice a week. Create a circle of reliable friends for your dog for constant communication! If you meet a cute stranger, try to carefully observe his signals and your dog’s reaction to him: you may have met a new friend.
There are times when, while walking, an unfriendly dog suddenly appears right in front of your dog. To relieve tension, silently and calmly stand between the dogs, separating them with your body (“separation” signal of reconciliation [1, 2]) and move your dog aside as soon as possible.
Speed of convergence of dogs
Dogs should approach each other slowly. Approaching quickly is considered impolite and will outrage other dogs.Therefore, if your dog approaches another dog too vigorously, try to slow down his pace. To do this, I use the command “Looser dog!”, Which I say quietly and … slowly. The dog understands me, as it adopts my mood and is used to being attentive to my signals.
You can ask your dog to sit or lie down to the side and calmly wait for the other dog to approach itself. This ritual can be supplemented with a verbal request to remain calm and later, when another dog approaches, use only a verbal request.If you react in an agitated manner – yelling, tearing at the leash, etc., she will become even more worried.
It sometimes happens that your dog itself becomes a victim of the rapid approach of another dog. In addition, there are often poorly socialized dogs that do not know how to communicate with relatives, ignoring their signals. Unsurprisingly, this behavior annoys a well-bred dog and he starts barking. Don’t be angry with her for her “aggression”! She really has the right to get angry when another dog breaks etiquette!
Perhaps it is the speed that makes many dogs annoyed if a person runs past them.If you notice an approaching runner or cyclist, it is better to move further away so that the dog is at a distance when the runner no longer causes him strong emotions . On the other hand, I would advise runners to consider the innate reactions of dogs themselves and avoid places where dogs walk most often. Sometimes, instead of getting angry with the owners and their dogs, it is better for the runner to stop and walk calmly by. It is important for both owners and runners to remember that they have to get along with each other, if only because each of them has to respect the others.
Dogs educate each other
It is interesting that if an ill-bred and well-bred dog is not on a leash, then a well-bred dog most likely will not bark, but will try to “rein in” the ignorant with body language – signals of reconciliation. It is this property that allows dogs to train each other and thus solve social behavior problems of poorly socialized dogs.
In a clearing, when there is nowhere to hide from the obsessive puppies, Dusya sits back down to them. This is not only a signal to the puppies to calm down, but also to me: it means that we have to leave here, because Dusya is nervous.
An unfamiliar dog approached us. Dusya did not like her, and Dusya reacted to the greeting by sitting with her back to her. Nevertheless, the stranger still continued to sniff Dusya’s back. A few seconds later, Dusya jumped up abruptly and barked irritably at the stranger: if she does not want to respond to a polite signal, she has to express herself more sharply. It would be unfair to punish Dusya for her “aggression”.
The example of the owner is infectious to the dog
If a dog barks at another dog, it is important that the owner sets an example of the correct communication tone.As you know, dogs adopt the mood of the owner: the louder the owner shouts in some situation, the louder the dog barks. Therefore, to calm your dog on a walk, you need to talk to him as quietly as possible.
Power of habit
Very often dogs learn to behave in a certain environment in a very specific way. We can retrain them by showing them how they should behave differently.
Jack lives behind the neighbor’s fence. Passing Jack, Dusya pounced on the fence and began to bark.Jack barked, too, jumped up to the fence. For some time the dogs stood on their hind legs, leaning against the fence, and barked loudly at each other. They looked pretty aggressive. Nevertheless, every time I silently stood between the fence and Dusya, took her off the fence by the harness, put her on the ground, bent over to the side and spoke in a whisper:
Come on quietly! Hiji dog! Barking again, Dusya listened to my words, shook herself and fell silent. Jack also shook himself and left. The scuffle was over.Recently I noticed that, passing by Jack’s fence, Dusya no longer tried to throw herself on the grating, but just breathed heavily with excitement and looked back at me. Again I said to her in a whisper:
Tiiihaya dog! – and Dusya walked by without saying anything. Jack remained on the porch. He stared at us, licking his nose, but didn’t come up. Now we calmly walk past the fence, and the dogs no longer pay attention to each other.
Flashes of emotion
Do not be discouraged if you have not been able to react to any particular indignation of the dog on the street: no matter how we raise our dog, we must allow it to maintain its emotions.It is only important to avoid strong conflicts and not to create stable habits, so that the dog does not learn to react aggressively or too emotionally.
Some situations can irritate the dog too much, so that it is difficult for him to control himself. Outbursts of emotion in some individual cases can be caused by a specific situation or an unusual state of the dog at the moment, for example, stress. Try to calm your dog down in a friendly way whenever he gets aroused. You can take her aside and ask to sit down.Sometimes I also sit next to my dog or bend over to it, and we calm down together.
If you do not walk enough and the dog spends many hours in a row alone in a boring room, if you rarely give it the opportunity to run freely, then on a walk it will also inevitably experience violent emotions. This will make her “unmanageable”. Don’t be angry with the dog! No need to stoop to putting on strict collars or halts on her: neck pain inevitably leads to negative associations and makes the dog even more irritable.Instead, adjust your walking routine so that it comes naturally to your dog. Then they will stop worrying the dog, and you can teach him the rules of good form.
- Turid Rugos. Dialogue with dogs: signals of reconciliation. Dogfriend Publishers, 2008.
- Turid Rugos. Report at the first symposium on canine psychology in Moscow, 2009.
- Olga Kazharskaya. Black list of methods for treating dogs.
- Clarissa von Reinhardt, Martina Nagel. Stress in dogs. Dogfriend Publishers, 2008.
- Olga Kazharskaya. Subtle signs of stress in dogs.
- Olga Kazharskaya. Obedient dog. How realistic are our requirements?
- Olga Kazharskaya. Dog for a walk and at home. Situations of everyday life. Video.
Author: Olga Kazharskaya, Dogfriend Publishers.
90,000 How to stop a dog from barking. Practical advice from JackRussell.pro
Many dog breeders are faced with such a phenomenon as the frequent barking of a dog. This fully applies to the owners of Jack Russell Terriers – dogs of this breed are very “vociferous”. The constant barking of your dog on business or idle can be a serious problem – it can be stressful for children and the elderly, and in addition, neighbors often react to barking in a bad way.
Therefore, a well-bred dog should not bark often, but only when it really becomes necessary – when any threat arises to her or the owner, when it is necessary to attract attention, etc.d.
In order to prevent your dog from barking in other cases, it is necessary to take certain measures and wean it from barking at a very young age.
How do I train my dog to bark only when necessary?
First of all, you need to understand why dogs bark.
Let’s look at the main reasons for a dog’s barking:
- Barking when excited – most often puppies, and adult dogs too, bark from excitement: from joy at the sight of the owner or other familiar people, when they run out for a walk, while playing with other animals, etc.d.
- Warning barking – the dog warns the owner (or members of the pack) of an approaching stranger or other danger.
- Protective barking – the dog barks at a stranger, warning that it is ready to attack.
- Barking to attract the attention of the owner – this is how the dog can inform the owner about his discomfort or pain, remind him that it is time to go for a walk or that he is hungry.
- Barking when disturbed – dogs often bark and howl when left alone, locked up in a too small room or in an unfamiliar place.
- Barking from fear – when frightened, the dog may also start barking.
- Barking from boredom – the dog barks if it is bored and has nothing to do.
The dog owner should learn to distinguish between all of these variations of his dog’s barking.
How to stop a puppy from barking
Puppies bark quite often, and the owner cannot always understand what exactly is the reason for the barking. Therefore, first of all, you need to understand the reason for the barking. Examine the puppy to see if something is bothering him, if there are any health problems.Maybe he pricked his paw or was bitten by a bee, and so he tries to attract the attention of the owner. If the puppy is scared, he may also start barking intensely. In such cases, it makes no sense to scold the puppy or punish him, on the contrary – he should be helped or reassured.
In order to wean the puppy from pointless barking, it should be trained, for example, taught to shut up on the command “Quiet!”
When the puppy barks – squeeze his mouth with your palm and say: “Quiet!” When the puppy is silent, praise him and give him a treat.After a few repetitions of this training, your puppy will begin to understand to shut up on command. This command can also be combined with the command “Voice!”
If you want to teach your puppy not to bark in the house at the usual sounds outside the door – the noise of the elevator, the steps of neighbors – you can ask one of your friends to help you. Ask a friend to walk outside the door, and when the puppy starts barking, give the command “Quiet!” Be sure to reward your pet when he is silent.
You can also ask a friend to pull the door handle or pretend to pick the lock – in this case, praise the dog as soon as it starts barking.After a few of these trainings, the puppy will learn to bark in serious cases, but not to react to the usual noises outside the door.
Another way to stop a dog from barking at someone or something is to stand between the dog and the one at whom / what it is barking at. You can extend your hand back, palm towards the dog. When a barrier arises between the puppy and what he barks at, he will be silent. And an outstretched palm will be a signal by which he learns to shut up in the future.
Remember that dogs are very intelligent and with the right approach you can quickly wean your puppy from barking unnecessarily.
How to wean an adult dog from barking
But what if you have already got an adult dog that is not weaned from barking? Or did your dog never stop barking when he was a puppy?
In these cases, the constant barking can be more difficult to cope with. There are special devices for weaning adult dogs from barking.
- Ultrasonic Transmitter or Whistle for Dogs – The dog’s ear is sensitive to high frequencies that humans cannot hear, therefore ultrasonic whistles or transducers are often used in dog training.You can set the transmitter to an unpleasant frequency for the dog and turn it on when the dog barks for no reason. The dog will stop barking pretty quickly.
- Special collar – there are several types of collars for weaning a dog from barking. Electric Shock Collar – Allows you to pass a weak electrical shock as soon as the dog begins to bark. Such a discharge is absolutely safe, but quite effective. The second type is a spray collar with a lemon scent. The dog is frightened by water and an unpleasant smell for it, and quickly weaned off barking.
- Normal muzzle – It can also be used to wean a dog from barking. However, it has the disadvantage that it does not prevent the dog from whining or howling.
How to stop a dog from barking at people
How to stop a dog from barking at passers-by? During a walk, the dog may start barking at the people around him, and this may be due to several reasons.
- The dog shows its leadership – the dog tries to show that he is the leader of the pack.You will have to pay more attention to training him, accustoming him to the idea that you are the leader. The dog must know the commands perfectly, especially “Fu!” and “Quiet!”
- The dog is too active – your dog may start to “pester” passers-by due to excess energy. In this case, you need to walk with the dog more often and longer, play with it, run and jump – to provide it with a splash of unnecessary activity.
- The dog is not socialized – you will need to accustom the dog to frequent communication with people.She must understand that this is in the order of things. Walk with her more often, stop near friends, talk to them. Gradually, the dog will get used to other people and stop barking. It is also necessary to reinforce her behavior with commands.
- The dog is aggressive – if you have an adult dog with a “fighting past”, you may not be able to retrain it to bark and rush at passers-by. In this case, it is advisable to consult with a specialist, take the dog to training sessions.You should also walk your dog only on a leash and in secluded places where it cannot attack people.
Using collars can also help you stop your dog from barking at passers-by.
The dog is your friend
A dog owner should always remember that dogs are very intelligent and docile animals, and if you treat the dog with understanding and respect, do not shout or punish unnecessarily, the dog will very quickly learn to understand you and obey your commands.Remember that you need to train the dog calmly and confidently, without losing your temper, and the correct execution of commands should be reinforced with a treat and praise.
If you are patient, your pet will soon stop barking unnecessarily. And how pleasant it will be when the dog meets you at the door not with stupid barking, but with a loving look and friendly wagging of its tail!
Zoonik: reviews and customer reviews.
After giving birth, our spaniel turned into a beast from a sweet, good-natured and loving doggie.I don’t know what happened to her, maybe some kind of hormonal failure, or maybe she just went crazy (which is unlikely, she behaves decently at home !!!), but it became almost impossible to walk with her down the street. She bullies up to all passing dogs, and does not just bark at them, but purposefully tries to bite them. At one of these moments, when I was just morally tired of quarreling with the dog lovers, and just with the passers-by, I could not resist and went to the store, I had to shut my mouth to this “bazaar” dog by all means.
And I began to look for her muzzle. Since we have a small dog, it was extremely difficult for her to pick up the muzzle, plus it had to be light enough, of course not leather, but dense so that it could sit tight, but did not interfere with breathing, and so that she could not bark at everyone and all, and even more so to bite.
After a long search, I came across a muzzle of the Zoonik company, lightweight, nylon, inexpensive, Russian, although at first I was looking for more from foreign companies, because I did not hope to buy something worthwhile from a domestic manufacturer, but as I see now, I was mistaken, but this is also to the best.
As I thought, the dog did not like the muzzle at all, in the sense that it was not that it was uncomfortable, it hurt, and so on. Well, there are no options, it’s her own fault! We will reeducate. When we for the first time with difficulty, as we struggled, put on her a muzzle, she tried to remove it already from the muzzle, and did not understand at all why she needed this thing. But I was ruthless. I didn’t want any more fights with the owners of the dogs bitten by her. Before, I simply could not even think about him (muzzle), it seemed to me that she was very well-mannered with us, but it turned out to be not so simple.
The muzzle is made, again, of nylon, has side fasteners that are perfectly adjustable on the back of the head. The clasp secures it securely. Easy to take off and put on. Sits perfectly. He is exactly her size (two), does not tighten her muzzle strongly, but does not allow her mouth to open either. Breathing in it is calm, nothing interferes.
And another big plus is that now she will not be able to grab dirty food and bones on the street – this was also common behind her. You can hardly catch something through such a small crack.
In general, we were very pleased with it, well, apart from the dog, of course, she strives to take it off. But she doesn’t succeed, she’ll get used to it. I recommend a nylon collar as a worthy product to protect your nerves and other people’s dogs :))).
Thanks for reading to the end!
How to choose a muzzle for a dog and not be mistaken
When deciding to get a dog, any owner should worry about purchasing the necessary ammunition.In addition to the collar and leash, the dog needs a suitable muzzle. It is very important for the owner to know how to choose a muzzle for a dog so as not to harm his pet and to achieve the purpose for which it was purchased.
Purpose of using muzzles
It is advisable to purchase several muzzles of various configurations for your pet, since each of them has its own purpose:
- For training. The dog is simply taught to wear it and not try to take it off.Wearing a muzzle by a dog without signs of anxiety and without taking action to get rid of it is one of the points of the programs of the general training course and protective guard service.
- Formal: To lead the dog through a crowd of people, to walk on busy streets or to travel on public transport. The rules of keeping provide for the wearing of a muzzle by a dog in all these conditions, regardless of the size, age and purpose of the animal.
- To prevent biting. If the dog is facing painful or just unpleasant manipulation by the veterinarian, an aggressive dog needs a haircut, or the dog is nervous, in pain or angry, but still needs walks, a muzzle is necessary.
- To prevent picking up from the ground. Many dogs like to “vacuum” outside, picking up food debris, excrement from other animals, inedible and dangerous items. This is especially true for puppies and former street bums, for whom picking was formed as the only opportunity to find food.
- For daily walks. These are universal models that do not allow the dog to bite a person or animal, pick up anything from the ground and will not interfere with his breathing normally.
What muzzles are there?
It is necessary to study all types of pet supplies on the market.Muzzles are of the following types:
Leather deaf is a kind of leather “box” with openings for air intake, which will not allow the dog to open its mouth and even bark. In a deaf leather muzzle, the dog can only grumble softly. The material is very durable leather that will not be torn by claws or stretched. Such muzzles are needed for veterinary examination of an aggressive animal or painful manipulations, for training any dog, for leading a large or nervous unbalanced dog through a crowd of people.Due to poor ventilation, it is allowed to use deaf leather muzzles only for a short time, up to several tens of minutes.
It is completely unacceptable to use them for walking, because he cannot breathe normally in them, suffers from a lack of oxygen, there is a possibility of getting heatstroke due to the inability to open the mouth for the required heat exchange and lose consciousness. Not suitable for dogs with short muzzles and brachycephalics – Bulldogs, Boxers, Staffordshire Terriers, Pugs, as they can get hypoxia or heatstroke due to respiratory failure even in cool weather.Deaf muzzles are allowed for these types of dogs only at the time of an appointment with a veterinarian with a clear demonstration of aggression.
Leather mesh – these muzzles are a mesh-structure of leather straps. In it, the dog can open its mouth, stick out its tongue, breathe freely and drink water. It is even suitable for rewarding a dog with a treat. These muzzles are used for daily walking, transporting dogs, training. But many models of leather mesh muzzles do not prevent dogs from picking up or licking unwanted objects from the ground.To prevent the dog from “vacuuming” on the street, you need to choose a model with a deaf or almost deaf bottom and with the widest possible distances between the straps on the sides. It is possible to choose a model for a dog of any breed.
Metal “basket” – in it the dog can drink, receive a treat, breathe freely with his open mouth and lick his lips. But this design is quite heavy and is suitable only for an adult animal with a fully formed head. An aggressive dog can bite if he succeeds in pressing his muzzled head against a person or another dog.Designs in the form of baskets make it difficult to pick up and lick objects from the ground.
In winter, they should not be worn due to the risk of frostbite in the face and general hypothermia of the dog’s body. Because of the severity, metal “baskets” are allowed to be carried by strong dogs – most shepherds, bulldogs, terriers, boxers, giant schnauzers, medium and large molossians.
Plastic is an analogue of metal, only much lighter. In it, the dog breathes freely and licks its lips, but cannot pick it up from the ground, it is also difficult to bite, because, in contrast to the metal plastic basket, “is more frequent.In the heat, it is unpleasant for a dog to walk in such a muzzle, and in cold weather, poor-quality plastic can crack, but in general this is a fairly good choice. It is possible to choose a model for any dog - from small to giant, from brachycephalic to long-faced dog like Doberman, collie or greyhound.
Cloth (nylon) is the simplest design in the form of a bandage on the face. It does not prevent the dog from picking up from the ground, licking its lips, breathing, opening its mouth and even biting. The purpose of the cloth muzzle is to comply with formalities.In such a muzzle, you can walk on a busy street, transport the dog in transport and put it on for training purposes. In general, it is a cheap, convenient and multifunctional item. Suitable for all puppies for training to the muzzle, good for long-faced dogs: dachshunds, greyhounds, hounds, many shepherds, less convenient for dogs with short muzzles – Staffordshire Terriers, lapdogs, Pekingese. Not suitable for brachycephalic.
Bridle – this design combines the functions of a muzzle and a collar or harness, because a leash is attached to it.The bridle will not protect you from being bitten or picking up from the ground, but it is good for mechanical correction of unwanted behavior during training. Formally, such a bridle can be used for walking in busy crowded places and when transporting a dog in transport.
How to find the right muzzle?
In order to choose the right muzzle for a dog, you need to decide for what purpose it will be used, take into account the individual characteristics of the pet, and also choose a product of the appropriate size.
How to determine the size of a muzzle for a dog:
- you need to measure the length of the muzzle – from the tip of the nose to its transition to the forehead;
- muzzle circumference – measured at its widest part plus three centimeters;
- head length – from the tip of the nose to the occipital protuberance;
- neck circumference – measured behind the occipital protuberance.
The distance between the dog’s eyes and ears must be taken into account. In accordance with each indicator, a muzzle is selected. But ideally, it is best to take your pet with you and pick up ammunition exactly for it.Algorithm of how to choose a muzzle for a dog:
- Determine the purpose of using the ammunition and accordingly choose the material and construction,
- Choose the right size,
- If possible, try on the product and let the dog get used to it,
- Pay attention to the quality of performance: not threads, lines, burrs, splinters in any part of the muzzle should be visible; straps must be strong and not stretched; muzzle rivets for dogs larger than a pug are made of metal, not plastic, otherwise it will not last long and fail at the most inopportune moment.
When a muzzle is required
Use of a muzzle is required:
- for transporting dogs by public transport;
- aisle through a crowd of people;
- passageways near children’s and medical institutions;
- for walking aggressive dogs of all breeds;
- for walking guard and service dogs.
Rules for the safe use of muzzles
It is not enough to know how to choose a muzzle for a dog.You need to know and follow the rules for their use to preserve the health of your pet and minimize negative consequences for society. The dog should breathe freely – without wheezing and wheezing (an exception for constantly snoring – French Bulldogs, for example). The muzzle should be free to hold, without snuggling to the muzzle, but not fall off or dangle.