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Ingredients in lotions. The 5 Best Lotion Ingredients for Healthy, Hydrated Skin

What are the most effective moisturizing ingredients in lotions. Which lotion components provide the best hydration for dry skin. How do ceramides, fatty acids, and hyaluronic acid benefit skin health. What harmful ingredients should you avoid in body lotions.

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Understanding the Power of Ceramides in Skin Care

Ceramides are lipid molecules found naturally in skin cell membranes that play a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration. These powerful ingredients help create a barrier that prevents moisture loss, keeping skin soft and supple.

Why are ceramides so important for skin health? Dr. Ava Shamban, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA, explains: “Natural or synthetic ceramides help maintain and restore skin barrier function, so that moisture is sealed in.” This makes ceramides especially beneficial for those with dry or sensitive skin conditions.

Research has shown that individuals with eczema and psoriasis tend to have significantly fewer ceramides in their skin compared to those with normal skin. By incorporating ceramide-rich products into your skincare routine, you can help replenish this vital component and strengthen your skin’s natural moisturizing capabilities.

Benefits of Ceramides for Different Skin Types

  • Dry skin: Locks in moisture and prevents further water loss
  • Sensitive skin: Strengthens the skin barrier, reducing irritation
  • Aging skin: Improves skin elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines
  • Acne-prone skin: Helps balance oil production without clogging pores

Essential Fatty Acids: Nature’s Skin Food

Essential fatty acids are vital nutrients that our bodies cannot produce on their own. These healthy fats play a crucial role in maintaining skin health and hydration. Dr. David Bank, president of the New York State Society for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, highlights some key sources: “Olive oil, avocado, almond oil, and shea butter are all essential fatty acids that will help lock in moisture.”

How do essential fatty acids benefit the skin? These nutrients act as building blocks for cell membranes, helping to create a strong barrier that retains moisture. They also have anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe and calm irritated skin.

Top Sources of Essential Fatty Acids for Skin Health

  1. Omega-3 fatty acids: Found in salmon, mackerel, walnuts, and flaxseed
  2. Omega-6 fatty acids: Present in safflower oil, sunflower oil, and evening primrose oil
  3. Omega-9 fatty acids: Abundant in olive oil and avocado oil

Incorporating these ingredients into your skincare routine, either through topical application or dietary intake, can significantly improve skin hydration and overall health.

The Hydrating Trio: Glycerin, Glycols, and Polyols

Glycerin, glycols, and polyols belong to a family of ingredients known as humectants. These powerful moisturizers work by attracting water molecules from the environment and binding them to the skin, effectively increasing hydration levels.

Cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer explains their function: “These ingredients cause skin to draw in and bind extra moisture.” This unique ability makes them essential components in many hydrating skincare products, from gentle cleansers to rich moisturizers.

How Do Humectants Work?

Take glycerin as an example. If left in open air, it would gradually absorb water until it reached a composition of about 20% water and 80% glycerin. This remarkable water-binding capacity translates to intense moisturizing effects when applied to the skin.

Common variations of these humectants found in skincare products include:

  • Propylene glycol
  • Butylene glycol
  • Sorbitol
  • Xylitol

These ingredients are particularly beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin, as they help to replenish and maintain optimal moisture levels throughout the day.

Hyaluronic Acid: The Moisture Magnet

Hyaluronic acid stands out as one of the most impressive moisturizing ingredients in skincare. This naturally occurring substance has an extraordinary ability to retain water, making it a powerhouse for hydration.

Dr. Shamban emphasizes its effectiveness: “The hyaluronic acid molecule absorbs about 1,000 times its own weight in water.” This remarkable property allows hyaluronic acid to provide intense hydration while maintaining a lightweight feel on the skin.

Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid for Different Skin Types

  • Dry skin: Provides deep, long-lasting hydration
  • Oily skin: Offers non-greasy moisture without clogging pores
  • Aging skin: Plumps and firms, reducing the appearance of fine lines
  • Sensitive skin: Gentle and non-irritating

The versatility of hyaluronic acid makes it suitable for all skin types, including those prone to acne. Its lightweight, non-oily nature ensures that it won’t exacerbate breakouts while still providing much-needed hydration.

Sodium PCA: The Natural Moisture Binder

Sodium PCA is a naturally occurring component of human skin that plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration. This powerful humectant binds water to skin cells, helping to keep them plump and moisturized.

Cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer highlights its effectiveness: “Sodium PCA has excellent water-absorbing properties.” This makes it an ideal ingredient for those looking to combat dryness and maintain long-lasting hydration.

Applications of Sodium PCA in Skincare

While commonly found in facial moisturizers, Sodium PCA’s benefits extend beyond just facial care:

  • Body lotions: Provides all-over hydration
  • Hair care products: Helps combat static and frizz
  • Hand creams: Offers intense moisture for dry, cracked hands

The versatility of Sodium PCA makes it a valuable ingredient in a wide range of personal care products, addressing hydration needs from head to toe.

Harmful Ingredients to Avoid in Body Lotions

While many lotion ingredients offer beneficial effects for the skin, some commonly used components can potentially harm your health. Being aware of these harmful ingredients can help you make informed choices when selecting skincare products.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)

BHA is a preservative often used in body lotions and other personal care products. However, it has been classified as an endocrine disruptor and is “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen” by the National Toxicology Program. This means it may interfere with hormone function and potentially increase cancer risk.

DMDM Hydantoin

This preservative belongs to a class of formaldehyde-releasing compounds used in many cosmetics and personal care products. While DMDM Hydantoin itself isn’t classified as a carcinogen, it can release small amounts of formaldehyde, which is a known carcinogen. Additionally, it can be an irritant for eyes and skin, particularly in sensitive individuals.

Fragrance and Parfum

The terms “fragrance” or “parfum” on a product label can hide a cocktail of potentially harmful chemicals. Manufacturers aren’t required to disclose the specific ingredients used in fragrances, which can sometimes include allergens, hormone disruptors, or other irritants.

Natural Alternatives for Safe and Effective Skin Hydration

Given the potential risks associated with certain synthetic ingredients, many consumers are turning to natural alternatives for skin hydration. These plant-based options can provide effective moisturization without the worry of harmful side effects.

Shea Butter

Derived from the nuts of the shea tree, this rich, creamy substance is packed with fatty acids and vitamins. It’s excellent for deeply moisturizing dry skin and can help soothe conditions like eczema.

Coconut Oil

Known for its antimicrobial and moisturizing properties, coconut oil can be an excellent option for those with dry or sensitive skin. It’s rich in medium-chain fatty acids that help strengthen the skin barrier.

Aloe Vera

This succulent plant contains a gel-like substance that’s not only moisturizing but also has anti-inflammatory properties. It’s particularly beneficial for soothing sunburned or irritated skin.

Jojoba Oil

Similar in composition to human sebum, jojoba oil is easily absorbed by the skin. It’s non-comedogenic, making it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.

By opting for products with these natural ingredients, you can achieve healthy, hydrated skin while minimizing exposure to potentially harmful chemicals.

The Role of Diet in Skin Hydration

While topical treatments are crucial for skin hydration, the foods we consume play an equally important role in maintaining skin health from the inside out. A diet rich in certain nutrients can significantly improve skin hydration and overall appearance.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids

Found abundantly in fatty fish like salmon and mackerel, as well as in walnuts and flaxseeds, omega-3 fatty acids help strengthen the skin’s lipid barrier, reducing moisture loss and inflammation.

Antioxidants

Fruits and vegetables rich in vitamins A, C, and E provide powerful antioxidants that protect skin cells from damage and promote healthy skin function. Berries, citrus fruits, and leafy greens are excellent sources.

Hydrating Foods

Water-rich foods like cucumbers, watermelon, and zucchini can contribute to your daily fluid intake, helping to keep your skin hydrated from within.

Collagen-Boosting Nutrients

Foods high in vitamin C, such as bell peppers and broccoli, support collagen production, which is essential for maintaining skin elasticity and hydration.

By incorporating these nutrient-rich foods into your diet, you can complement your topical skincare routine and achieve optimal skin hydration and health.

Understanding the Skin’s Natural Moisture Barrier

The skin’s natural moisture barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration and protecting against external stressors. Understanding how this barrier functions can help you make informed decisions about your skincare routine.

Structure of the Moisture Barrier

The moisture barrier consists of corneocytes (dead skin cells) held together by lipids, primarily ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. This structure is often compared to a “brick and mortar” system, where the corneocytes are the bricks and the lipids are the mortar.

Functions of the Moisture Barrier

  • Retains moisture within the skin
  • Prevents excessive water loss
  • Protects against environmental pollutants and irritants
  • Regulates skin pH

Factors That Can Damage the Moisture Barrier

Several factors can compromise the integrity of the skin’s moisture barrier:

  1. Overwashing or using harsh cleansers
  2. Extreme weather conditions
  3. Excessive sun exposure
  4. Certain skin conditions like eczema or rosacea
  5. Aging

When the moisture barrier is damaged, it can lead to increased water loss, resulting in dry, flaky, and sensitive skin. Understanding these factors can help you take proactive steps to protect and maintain your skin’s natural defense system.

Supporting the Moisture Barrier

To maintain a healthy moisture barrier, consider the following strategies:

  • Use gentle, pH-balanced cleansers
  • Apply moisturizers that contain barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides and fatty acids
  • Protect your skin from sun damage with broad-spectrum sunscreen
  • Avoid over-exfoliation, which can strip the skin of its natural oils
  • Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water

By taking care of your skin’s natural moisture barrier, you can help ensure that your skin remains hydrated, healthy, and resilient against environmental stressors.

The Science Behind Skin Hydration

Understanding the science of skin hydration can help you make more informed choices about your skincare routine. Let’s delve into the mechanisms that keep our skin moisturized and the factors that influence hydration levels.

Water Content in Skin

Healthy skin typically contains about 10-30% water. This water is crucial for maintaining skin elasticity, facilitating enzymatic processes, and supporting overall skin function. The water content in skin is primarily regulated by three factors:

  1. Natural moisturizing factor (NMF)
  2. Intercellular lipids
  3. Aquaporins (water channels in cell membranes)

Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)

NMF is a collection of water-soluble compounds that attract and hold water in the stratum corneum. Key components of NMF include:

  • Amino acids
  • Urea
  • Lactic acid
  • Sodium PCA

These compounds act as humectants, drawing water into the skin and helping to maintain optimal hydration levels.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

TEWL refers to the amount of water that evaporates from the skin surface. Higher TEWL rates are associated with drier, less hydrated skin. Factors that can increase TEWL include:

  • Low humidity environments
  • Skin barrier dysfunction
  • Certain skin conditions like eczema
  • Aging

Understanding TEWL can help you choose products and adopt habits that minimize water loss and maintain skin hydration.

The Role of pH in Skin Hydration

The skin’s pH plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration and overall skin health. Healthy skin typically has a slightly acidic pH, ranging from 4.5 to 6.5. This acidic environment helps to:

  • Maintain the integrity of the skin barrier
  • Support the growth of beneficial bacteria
  • Inhibit the growth of harmful microorganisms

Using products that are pH-balanced or slightly acidic can help maintain this optimal environment and support skin hydration.

Hydration and Skin Cell Turnover

Proper hydration is essential for normal skin cell turnover. When skin is well-hydrated:

  • Enzymes function more effectively in shedding dead skin cells
  • New skin cells can move more easily to the surface
  • The skin appears smoother and more radiant

By understanding these scientific principles, you can better appreciate the importance of maintaining skin hydration and choose products that effectively support your skin’s natural processes.

The 5 Best Lotion Ingredients

If you suffer from dry, flaky skin, the moisturizer aisle can feel like a minefield. You don’t want to waste money on ineffective products or those that make unrealistic claims — or to buy a lotion that might even make your condition worse. Before you pick up another tube or bottle, read our glossary of the best moisturizing ingredients to find the antidote for your dry skin.

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipid molecules found in the membrane of skin cells that are credited with helping to prevent moisture loss. “Natural or synthetic ceramides will help maintain and restore skin barrier function, so that moisture is sealed in,” explains Ava Shamban, MD, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA. Studies have shown that people who have eczema and psoriasis have significantly fewer ceramides than people with normal skin. By using products that contain, you shore up the skin’s own moisturization defenses.

Essential fatty acids

Also known as healthy fats, essential fatty acids are the fuel that cells require to undergo biological processes, like moisturization, that keep skin healthy and glowing. The body doesn’t produce essential fatty acids on its own, so the nutrients must be absorbed from a person’s diet or from skin creams. “Olive oil, avocado, almond oil, and shea butter are all essential fatty acids that will help lock in moisture,” says David Bank, MD, president of the New York State Society for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery. Omega-3 fatty acids are present in such foods as salmon, mackerel, walnuts, soy, flaxseed, and safflower oil.

Glycerin, glycols, and polyols

These three ingredients are members of the humectant family — they “cause skin to draw in and bind extra moisture,” says cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer. For example, if you left glycerin out in the open, it would slowly but steadily absorb water from the air until it became about 20 percent water and 80 percent glycerin. That potent ability to pull in and retain water makes it a common ingredient in hydrating soaps and cleansers that are formulated to gently cleanse skin without stripping it of moisture. These humectants can appear in numerous variations on ingredient lists; two of the most widely usedr versions are propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

Hyaluronic acid

This is perhaps the most impressive of all moisturizing ingredients. “The hyaluronic acid molecule absorbs about 1,000 times its own weight in water,” Dr. Shamban says. That quick and effective hydrating action keeps collagen and elastin moist and functioning, and therefore helps skin look supple and youthful. And for oily skin that easily breaks out from the use of heavy humectants, hyaluronic acid is a lightweight, nonoily ingredient that is “safe” for even the most acne-prone complexions.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, another type of humectant, is found naturally in the proteins of human skin and binds water to cells. “Sodium PCA has excellent water-absorbing properties,” says Hammer. While water weight may otherwise be the last thing we want to hold onto, it’s exactly what you want in a moisturizer to guarantee the longest-lasting hydration. Sodium PCA is commonly found in moisturizers for the skin, though it’s also an excellent ingredient to look for in hair care products if you suffer from static — the hydrating molecule soothes hair and prevents flyaways.

Harmful Ingredients In Body Lotion

Jo Millington/Shutterstock

Before you reach for that pretty bottle lotion on your bathroom shelf, know that what’s inside may not be as innocent as it looks. There are dozens of ingredients currently being used in top-brand body lotions that range from questionable to potentially hazardous. Watch out for these 6 toxic ingredients when scanning body lotion labels. 

1. Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)
BHA is a food preservative and stabilizer that routinely shows up in body lotions, as well as everything from lipstick to yeast infection treatments. But beware—it’s an endocrine disruptor and “reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen,” according to the National Toxicology Program.

MORE: Homemade Shampoo

2. DMDM Hydantoin
This mysterious-sounding ingredient is a type of formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in a host of personal care items, including body lotion. (Formaldehyde releasers are used in 20% of all cosmetics and personal care products, according to the Environmental Working Group). It’s an irritant for eyes and skin, and while there’s no evidence that DMDM hydantoin itself is a carcinogen, formaldehyde definitely is. And if there’s an impurity in the DMDM Hydantoin used in your moisturizer, there’s a chance that formaldehyde is present.

MORE: Beware Of These Toxins In Self-Tanners

3. Fragrance + Parfum
You may think it’s nice that your lotion smells like strawberries and cream, but there’s no way that scent is natural. When you see “fragrance” or “parfum” on a label, read “a toxic mix of chemicals the manufacturer doesn’t want to tell you about.” Most notably, this includes diethyl phthalate, according to the Environmental Working Group. You may have already heard of phthalates since they’re used in just about everything from cosmetics to insecticides to wood finishes—and they’re known to be endocrine disruptors and toxic to organ systems. Synthetic fragrances like the ones used in lotions also emit harmful VOCs, which pollute indoor air quality and cause reparatory allergies and asthma.

4. Parabens
You’ll find parabens in practically all popular commercial body lotions (just look for butylparaben, isobutylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, or ethylparaben on the label). They prevent bacteria and fungus from growing in your favorite bottle of moisturizer, which would be great if they weren’t linked to hormone disruption and breast cancer. Luckily, manufacturers of organic lotions have found safer ways to keep their products fungus-free, like using vitamin E and citric acid, though these products tend to have a shorter shelf life than those that contain parabens. A safe one to try: Wildcraft Organic Lemongrass Body Cream.

5. Retinyl Palmitate

Paul Bradbury/Getty Images


Retinyl palmitate, the most controversial form of vitamin A, is a vitamin A derivative that you’ll see in some sunscreens, as well as lotions and creams advertised to have anti-aging properties. A study published by the National Toxicology Program found that mice exposed to retinyl palmitate developed a frightening number of tumors after exposure to sunlight. If you’re going to use lotions that contain retinyl palmitate, do so at night.

MORE: The Toxic Stuff In Sunscreen That’s Affecting Your Health

6. Triethanolamine
This mouthful of an ingredient is a highly alkaline substance that’s used to balance the pH in various body lotions and cosmetics (especially mascara). Despite its widespread use, it’s considered moderately dangerous and should never be used long-term, according to the Dermatology Review, since it’s a skin and respiratory irritant and toxicant to the immune system. It’s also been linked to cancer in animal studies. Though triethanolamine is considered biodegradable and nontoxic to animals and organisms, wastewater released from manufacturing plants containing large amounts of triethanolamine can significantly alter the pH of rivers and streams, resulting in toxic shock to marine life.

The article The 6 Most Harmful Ingredients Found In Body Lotion originally ran on RodalesOrganicLife.com.

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Exploring Product Ingredients – Lotions

In this post, we break down the ingredient labels on four lotions to show the ingredients’ most common purpose in the formulation.

What do I need to know before we dig in?

Remember, ingredients are listed from largest quantity to smallest quantity on a label. Different ingredients require different quantities and different doses to work as intended. 

You can learn more about cosmetic product labeling in a prior blog post.
 
We know that certain ingredients are common to specific products. So, you will notice commonalities and differences in listed ingredients as we explore the ingredient information.
 
The ingredient differences in similar products don’t necessarily make one product better than another product. Formulations balancing the ingredients are critical to the end product. It’s also quite subjective, what one person may find to work effectively, another person may not have the same success.

Lotions typically contain eight types of ingredients:

  • Emollients: help maintain soft, smooth skin.
  • Emulsifiers: help ingredients that naturally repel one another (e.g., oil and water) stay together and maintain their consistency.
  • Fragrances: provide the pleasant smell common in many products.
  • Humectants: help attract and retain moisture to the surface of the skin (1).
  • Occlusives: help slow moisture evaporation from our skin’s surface (typically oil-based).
  • pH Adjusters: help regulate the pH of a product keeping it safe to use on the skin.
  • Preservatives: help prevent unwanted bacteria and fungi from growing in the product (1).
  • Solvents: help ingredients dissolve and combine with one another. 

There are hundreds of ingredients that fall into the above categories and cosmetic manufacturers will pull ingredients from these (and other) categories to formulate their products.
 
Please note, we did not manufacture the products we’re exploring in this post. The ingredients and the ingredients’ purposes may be more nuanced and may include other properties not listed. Also, ingredients can have more than one function so some ingredients may be found in more than one category.


Let’s take a look at two lotions both marketing the same scent.

 

Lotion one: ingredients and their function
Ingredients as listed on the product: water, glycerin, alcohol denat. (denatured alcohol), cetearyl alcohol, cetyl esters, glyceryl dilaurate, cetyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, lanolin oil, dimethicone, fragrance, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium hydroxide, chlorphenesin, benzyl alcohol
 

 Emollients water, cetyl esters, glyceryl dilaurate, lanolin oil 
 Emulsifiers cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, lanolin oil, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
 Fragrances fragrance
 Humectants glycerin
 Occlusives lanolin oil, dimethicone
 pH Adjusters sodium hydroxide
 Preservatives alcohol denat. , chlorphenesin, benzyl alcohol
 Solvents water, alcohol denat., benzyl alcohol

 

Lotion two: ingredients and their function
Ingredients as listed on the product: water, glycerin, alcohol denat., cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, glyceryl dilaurate, dimethicone, cetyl esters, lanolin oil, fragrance, DMDM hydantoin, methylparaben, arginine, sodium hydroxide, propylparaben, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E)
 

 Emollients water, glyceryl dilaurate, cetyl esters, lanolin oil, arginine, tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E)
 Emulsifiers cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, lanolin oil, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
 Fragrances fragrance
 Humectants glycerin
 Occlusives dimethicone, lanolin oil, tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E)
 pH Adjusters sodium hydroxide
 Preservatives alcohol denat. , DMDM hydantoin, methylparaben, Propylparaben
 Solvents water, alcohol denat.,

 


Let’s compare two lotions marketed for skin protection properties.

 

Due to the health claims made by the manufacturers, these lotions are considered over-the-counter (OTC) drugs by the U.S. Food Drug Administration (FDA) and must be labeled in the same way as other OTC products (e.g., medications, sunscreen, etc.) are labeled. The labeling includes calling out an active ingredient as well as the inactive ingredients that make up the product.

Lotion three: ingredients and their function
Active Ingredient: dimethicone 1.2% (skin protectant)
 
Inactive ingredients: water, glycerin, distearyldimonium chloride, petrolatum, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour, benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride
 

 Emollients water, distearyldimonium chloride, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 Emulsifiers cetyl alcohol
 Fragrances 
 Humectants glycerin, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 Occlusives dimethicone, petrolatum, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 pH Adjusters 
 Preservatives benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride
 Solvents water, benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride

Lotion four: ingredients and their function
Active ingredient: Dimethicone 1. 3% (skin protectant)
 
Inactive ingredients: water, glycerin, distearyldimonium chloride, petrolatum, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour, benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride
 

 Emollients water, distearyldimonium chloride, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 Emulsifiers cetyl alcohol
 Fragrances 
 Humectants glycerin, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 Occlusives dimethicone, petrolatum, avena sativa (oat) kernel flour
 pH Adjusters 
 Preservatives benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride 
 Solvents water, benzyl alcohol, sodium chloride

 


What does it all mean?Breaking down the label, we can see the products are formulated to help our skin retain moisture and even protect skin, maintain a consistency that can easily spread and absorb into our skin without separating, remain free from potentially harmful pathogens, and, sometimes, smell nice too.  
 
It takes many ingredients working together in specific quantities to safely create the lotions and cosmetics we use and trust. Understanding that each ingredient serves a purpose and then learning the ingredient’s function, we can make the best decision to fit our personal needs.

We can also see that ingredients are often comparable between brands. If we look at the label, we can make decisions based on the product’s ingredients rather than branding.
 

Where can I get more information?

You can learn general cosmetic safety information at https://cosmeticsinfo.org.
 
You can view in-depth cosmetic ingredient safety information and reports at https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients

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