12 Best Natural Oils for a Healthy Glowing Skin

Natural oils have been used for skin care and hair care for centuries now. Generation after generation has used them for their various inherent moisturizing, protective, and antibacterial qualities. However, with a wide range of cosmetic beauty products so easily available in the market now, these natural oils and simple substances have been overlooked. “Oils have the most wonderful effect on the complexion due to their high affinity with the skin,” says Jacqueline Fernandez, a Sri Lankan model, and actress.

Essential oils have risen to prominence as alternative medicines have begun to gain popularity worlwide. These are highly volatile and powerful chemicals derived from plants by distillation or infusion. These natural aromatic compounds have a wide range of uses, ranging from house fragrance and meditation to self-care practices and therapeutic approaches. However, finding out how much oil suits your needs may require a little trial and error. Here, we have the 12 best natural oils for you to get healthy and radiant skin.

Top Picks

1. Nexon Botanics Organic Lavender Oil – Best Organic Oil
2. Viva Naturals Extra Virgin Coconut Oil – Best Moisturizing Oil For Skin
3. Urban Botanics Cold Pressed Olive Oil – Best Natural Oil For Body
4. Okay African Shea Butter – Best Natural Face Oil
5. Anveya Organic Jojoba Oil –  Best Light Texture Natural Oil

12 Best Natural Oils for Radiant Skin

1. Nexon Botanics Organic Lavender Oil

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This essential oil combines the advantages of the Angustifolia and hybrida families which provide wonderful scent and skincare benefits. It is believed to improve the overall look and feel of the skin when diluted with an oil carrier before applying. The lavender oil promotes relaxation by creating a calm environment and promotes a pleasant and collected mood when applied to the temples, back of the neck, or soles of the feet. Because of its relaxing aroma, the oil also makes for an excellent sleep mist. 

Pros

• Easy to use
• Easy to dispense
• Worth the value
• Moisturizes the skin

Cons

• Not great for massaging

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2. Viva Naturals Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

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Pros

• No parabens
• Lightweight texture
• Worth the value
• Suitable for all

Cons

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• Slightly expensive

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3. Urban Botanics Cold Pressed Olive Oil

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This olive oil contains vitamins A, D, E, and K, and acts as a great moisturiser. With its heavy consistency, it is a great choice for an all-body application. You can apply it on the back and elbows as it helps dry out skin. It may also help prevent premature signs of aging on the skin due to its alcohol-free ingredients. The oil is great for massaging the skin and helps in relaxing the tensed muscles. Psst.. just don’t add it to your salad bar!

Pros

• Prevents premature aging
• Massages well on the skin
• Anti-inflammatory
• Promotes skin elasticity

Cons

• Leaves greasy residue

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4. Raw African Shea Butter

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It’s a traditional oil derived from various parts of African subcontinents. Made from the nuts of the African shea tree, shea butter is a tallow-like substance that is commonly found in a solid form, but it melts at body temperature and is sometimes used as a moisturizer and hair product. It is known to treat acne and blemishes and reduces skin inflammation. You can combine organic shea butter with olive oil or coconut oil to create a smoother texture for better application.  

Pros

• Smells great
• Smoothens skin
• Stays long on your body
• No parabens
• No mineral-oil

Cons

• Contains toxin-related ingredients

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5. Anveya Organic Jojoba Oil

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Anveya Jojoba oil is known to be anti-inflammatory and wound healing with it’s incredibly hydrating and collagen-stimulating properties. Natural versions of vitamins C, E, and B are present in this oil, and these act as a protective layer for your skin against pollution and other environmental stressors. Plus, it works stupendously well on removing excessive makeup from skin pores!

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Pros

• Works as a makeup remover
• Great scent
• Great for face and hair
• Fights pollutants and toxins
• Contains anti-inflammatory properties

Cons

• Leaves a greasy residue

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6. Good Vibes Almond Facial Oil

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This almond oil is prepared with the best almonds and is high in nutrients such as vitamin E and proteins. It has a lighter texture that many people prefer to apply on their faces. It relieves dry skin, lowers puffiness and under-eye circles, and enhances complexion and skin tone. It diminishes dark spots and dark circles making them the problems of the past. Free of toxic materials and sulfates, nourishing your skin is a must-have!

Pros

• Gets absorbed easily
• Light on skin
• Paraben-free
• Contains natural ingredients

Cons

• Too little quantity

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7. Difeel 99% Natural Castor Oil

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This silicone-free natural oil is high in ricinoleic acid which can be utilized to moisturise the skin. They operate as occlusive moisturisers, preventing or reducing water loss through the skin’s outer layer. The oil is also affordable and may be used on your face, hair, and body. Because castor oil is thick, it is typically great to use for hair and it emulsifies the strength while detangling hair and making it less frizzy.

Pros

• Sheer texture
• Increases hair growth
• Moisturizes the skin well
• No parabens

Cons

• Leaves greasy residue behind

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8. Naturalis Essence Of Nature Grapeseed Oil

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Naturalis Essence Of Nature grapeseed oil is a lightweight natural oil that includes vitamin E and necessary fatty acids. It combines anti-aging and anti-oxidant characteristics present already in your skin to make it more efficient and effective at skin preservation. It softens and elasticizes the skin decreasing the chances of saggy-looking skin. Not only that, it also works great for removing dark circles if you’ve been up all night studying or working.

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Pros

• Helps in hair growth
• Fights dandruff
• Eliminates dark spots and circles
• Worth the value

Cons

• Doesn’t smell great

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9. Ethiko Organic 100% Pure Rosehip Seed Oil

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Extracted from the seeds of wild rose bushes, rosehip seed oil has seen a surge in popularity and is increasingly found in facial skincare products that have moisturising, and anti-aging benefits. Enriched with essential fatty acids and antioxidants, including vitamin A  and retinol, it provides relatively high protection against inflammation and oxidative skin damage. The rosehip seed oil helps in fighting hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and marks and promotes the regeneration of skin cells.

Pros

• Brightens the skin
• Reduces tan
• Promotes regeneration of skin cells
• Increases elasticity of the skin
• Moisturizes richly

Cons

• Expensive

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10. SVA Organics Lemongrass Oil

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The steam-distilled lemongrass oil by SVA Organics has a calming psychological effect. It is not just useful for fragrance; it can also be used to nourish your face, body, and scalp. The oil improves hair growth, strength, and thickness. This is incredibly effective and strong in protecting your skin from environmental elements and improving skin suppleness. Its aromatic trail is a gracious gift bestowed upon us by the lemongrass leaves. 

Pros

• Relaxing
• Best scented
• Lingers for a long time
• Moisturizes the skin

Cons

• Can feel sticky

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11. Woolzies Best Natural Rose Essential Oil

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When you’re looking for the most soothing massage oil, go no further: the flowery essential rose oil is the greatest option among all essential oils used in aromatherapy for relaxation. It is produced from pure rose essence, which has been shown to diminish indications of aging and scarring, and it has a superior dropper that allows for slow and steady pouring for optimal oil flow. This is a suitable choice for inflamed skin and promotes circulation throughout the body when massaged well into the body.

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Pros

• Smells just like a fresh rose
• Mess-free usage
• Affordable
• Can be added to other DIY products

Cons

• Doesn’t last long

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12. NaturoBliss 100% Pure and Natural Eucalyptus Oil

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NaturoBliss eucalyptus oil is used to address a wide range of skin concerns. This fragrant oil when applied works naturally as a mosquito repellent. These days, eucalyptus oil is most often utilized for its invigorating fragrance that relaxes and calms the mind. Though you don’t want to apply undiluted eucalyptus oil to your skin, you can add the oil to your cosmetic products, especially those designed for use in aromatherapy.

Pros

• Antiseptic properties
• Promotes aromatic healing 
• Lasts-long 
• Easy to dispense

Cons

• Cannot be applied directly to the skin

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What to Look for in an Essential Oil Brand?

• Ingredients – The list of contents on any product packaging is a fantastic place to start your search for excellent essential oils ingredients. One may look first at components used by certain brands or examine what’s within a single bottle. This is critical because it will help you to identify what the oil is comprised of. Look for products with minimal ingredient lists and full transparency about what’s within each bottle of oil for the most natural alternatives.
• Certifications – They provide further information about essential oil brands and their goods. A USDA organic certification, for example, shows that essential oil is created almost exclusively from organic components and is devoid of fertilizers and pesticides. PETA’s vegan & cruelty-free accreditation and the Leaping Bunny Cruelty-Free certification are two more third-party certifications to consider. 
• Aroma – The scent of essential oil can either help or hinder it! You should look for oils with pleasant smells and items that smell good to your nose. Essential oils can be combined together in a single bottle or in a diffuser to create a more tailored combination. 

• Pesticides-

Pesticide residues are likely to be co-extracted during essential oil extraction. A specific method like the Liquid Chromatography Tandem Mass Spectrometer (LC-MS/MS) is used to detect and quantify the toxic materials. Thus, ask for test results before purchasing so that you may draw an educated conclusion.

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What to Use Natural Oils for?

• Bath or shower: Lavender and eucalyptus oil are the ideal oils to use in your bath. They promote relaxation and balance, allowing for more restful sleep. It can be an effective mood booster for some people due to its strain-relieving properties. These oils have also been used to relieve aches and pains in the joints and muscles. Because of the vapors generated, aromatherapy is widely used during bathing.
• Diffuser: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations if you decide to use essential oils in your humidifier. To use it, add a few drops of essential oil to the humidifier’s holding tank. The oil will naturally evaporate throughout the room. For the best results, use a cold mist and clean your humidifier on a regular basis.
• Steam inhalation: If you wish to take a steam, prepare a basin of hot water and a towel. Add a few drops of essential oil into the bowl and set it on a table. Wrap a towel around your head and the bowl. Close your eyes and take several deep breaths of the steam for a relaxed session.
• Massage: Essential oils may be used for skin care and massage in a number of ways. One should never apply undiluted oil to your skin. Apply the essential oil combination to your skin after diluting it with a carrier oil. Make your preferred rollerball blend using a recipe or your instincts. Concentrate on regions of muscle discomfort, tightness, and tension. You may also gently massage the oil into pressure spots like your temples and wrists.
• Humidifier: Add a few drops of essential oil to the water tank of a humidifierThe oil will evaporate spontaneously and spread around the room. Use a cold mist and clean your humidifier on a regular basis for optimal benefits.

The best natural oils, in addition to body lotions and moisturizers, are quite effective in hydrating the skin. Essential oils have therapeutic uses and are used in the treatment of many ailments such as infectious disorders, depression, and anxiety. They also serve as antifungal, antibacterial,  and wound-healing agents. These oils contain no chemicals and are thus the ideal choice, especially if you have sensitive skin. They are utilized in the world of scent because of their appealing odor. It is utilized all over the world, and as a result of increased consumption, the global essential oil market is fast expanding and gaining importance. Hope you liked the list and may you find your desired natural oil today!

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Why Trust select?

Anoushka Sinha, the writer of this article, is a skincare expert who loves to indulge in new skincare regimens. She likes to try out new products and share her genuine reviews and experiences with the readers. Here she has listed her top choices of natural oils which can help you keep your skin healthy and glowing!

Our product experts study the specifications of every product we suggest and try them out to bring what’s proven to be worthy of your money, time, and energy. We also have subject matter experts from various fields like Fashion, Skincare, Haircare, Home Decor, and Health & Fitness onboard to make sure our suggestions are credible and trustworthy. You can trust select to be your faithful shopping guide for all the right reasons!

6 Essential OIls for Skin (Tightening, Glowing and More)

Fact Checked

This Dr. Axe content is medically reviewed or fact checked to ensure factually accurate information.

With strict editorial sourcing guidelines, we only link to academic research institutions, reputable media sites and, when research is available, medically peer-reviewed studies. Note that the numbers in parentheses (1, 2, etc.) are clickable links to these studies.

The information in our articles is NOT intended to replace a one-on-one relationship with a qualified health care professional and is not intended as medical advice.

This article is based on scientific evidence, written by experts and fact checked by our trained editorial staff. Note that the numbers in parentheses (1, 2, etc.) are clickable links to medically peer-reviewed studies.

Our team includes licensed nutritionists and dietitians, certified health education specialists, as well as certified strength and conditioning specialists, personal trainers and corrective exercise specialists. Our team aims to be not only thorough with its research, but also objective and unbiased.

The information in our articles is NOT intended to replace a one-on-one relationship with a qualified health care professional and is not intended as medical advice.

By Dr. Josh Axe, DC, DNM, CN

November 7, 2022

(369)

Adapted from The Collagen Diet: A 28-Day Play for Sustained Weight Loss, Glowing Skin, Great Gut Health and a Younger You by Dr. Josh Axe

Protecting your skin isn’t just a cosmetic issue. This vital tissue is the first layer of defense against invading pathogens as well as the largest organ in your body.

Keeping it youthful and structurally sound has ramifications for your overall health — and promoting collagen is the single best strategy to safeguard your skin — but I don’t want to trivialize the cosmetic impact of collagen. When you look in the mirror and see someone with vibrant hair and skin — which, by the way, can still be luminous (sometimes even more so!) if it has a few wrinkles and laugh lines — you feel better about yourself, which contributes to your happiness and sense of wellbeing. That, in turn, can help you be a better parent, partner, friend and colleague. And there’s nothing superficial about that.

With that being said, essential oils are staples in my and Chelsea’s skin care routines. I honestly don’t know what we’d do without them.

Derived from plants, they contain concentrated amounts of active compounds that naturally support a healthy inflammation response, one of the many ways they boost skin health.

Here’s a look at some of the best essential oils for skin tightening, healthy aging and all around glowing skin. Find out why and how they can protect the collagen in your skin and how to properly use essential oils for skin care.

1. Frankincense oil

Research has shown that this ancient oil can reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks, and it seems to have the same effect on wrinkles and fine lines, according to a paper in Dermatologic Therapy. In that study, researchers instructed study subjects to apply frankincense oil to one side of their face for thirty days. The treated side showed significant improvement in sun damage, skin texture and fine lines as well as an increase in skin elasticity.

The secret behind its effectiveness is likely its inflammation-fighting ability. Mix two to three drops of the oil with equal parts coconut or jojoba oil and apply to your skin.

2. Pomegranate seed oil

The oil of the pomegranate seed offers powerful protection from sun damage, according to research, and actually inhibits the devastating UVB-induced damage, thereby protecting collagen. Apply several drops to the skin before and after sun exposure.

3. Lavender oil

Research shows that lavender essential oil triggers the production of three of your body’s most powerful antioxidants: glutathione (known as your body’s master antioxidant), catalase and superoxide dismutase. When cells are under stress, including fibroblasts, it’s glutathione that comes to the rescue.

Lavender oil is also helpful for wound healing, because it triggers protein synthesis, including collagen.

Apply a few drops of lavender oil to the skin before bed; it also promotes sleep and reduces anxiety!

4. Myrrh oil

A powerful anti-inflammatory, myrrh oil contains terpenoids and sesquiterpenes, which control inflammation and also fight free radicals. Myrrh oil is part of my daily skin routine (and my wife, Chelsea’s) because it also protects against the sun’s damaging UV radiation and supports youthful, glowing skin.

Apply a few drops to your skin before bed. (It will relax you, too!)

5. Jojoba oil

This isn’t technically an essential oil, but I’m including it here because it is wonderfully hydrating, probably because it contains a number of helpful ingredients like vitamin E, vitamin B complex, silicon, chromium, copper and zinc. It also can promote collagen, according to a study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, which showed that jojoba liquid wax, which is similar to oil, stimulated fibroblast synthesis of type I collagen in wounds.

Apply two to three drops of jojoba oil to your face.

6. Rosehip oil

There’s a good reason this oil (which isn’t actually an essential oil) has created a name for itself in the wrinkle-fighting realm: It’s packed with vitamin C, which, as you already know, plays a vital role in collagen production. Not only that, it also is a rich source of essential fatty acids, including oleic, palmitic, linoleic and gamma linoleic. It can strengthen nails, too.

Apply a few drops to the areas you’d like to strengthen and support.

Final Thoughts

Before adding essential oils to your daily regimen, be sure to read up on essential oil safety so you know which essential oils can go directly on your skin, which essential oils should be diluted, the ones to avoid during pregnancy and the essential oils that are bad for your skin.

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Why do we need natural oils for skin care

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Contents

The secret of oil is in its structure. The shape and size of the molecules allow you to freely penetrate into the very depths of tissues and work, as they say, from the inside. In addition, the oil captures other active components of cosmetics with it, which increases its effectiveness. In general, the oil is quite versatile, and sometimes the same product can be used on different areas of the body. But even considering its adaptability, watering yourself from head to toe from one bottle is not worth it.

Oils are pure and natural ingredients without unnecessary impurities, which are active and able to perform all the functions of a cream. Plus, the chemical composition of oils is similar to the contents of our pores, which means that the components will more easily penetrate into the upper layers of the epidermis.

Many myths often appear around oils, especially essential oils. But the fact that they can not only affect our mood, but also help our skin and body is not immediately clear. To convince you of the effectiveness of oils, we will answer the most frequently asked questions.

Well, if I need hydration, then I can use oil. And if you want to solve other skin problems?

Moisturizing is more of a side effect of any base oil, and oils have a lot of additional benefits. Almond oil is a great helper in the fight against cellulite, and hair and nails from it grow by leaps and bounds. Argan oil quickly heals the skin, tightens it and protects a little from ultraviolet radiation. Castor oil is recommended for those who want to grow eyelashes, while macadamia oil is used to protect hair from the sun.

Are these base oils? What are they used for as a base?

True, these oils are good on their own, but they work more actively in tandem with essential oils. Be careful: if the base oil can be safely poured into the palm of your hand, then essential oils work in the amount of just a couple of drops. What happens if I pour more? From allergies to chemical burns, so we do not recommend experimenting.

What can essential oils do that base oils can’t?

Essential oils have a narrower scope and a stronger effect. Orange essential oil is added to melted shea butter to prevent cellulite and accelerate the healing of stretch marks. Damask rose oil, along with avocado oil, is applied to the skin around the eyes to reduce puffiness and dark circles. Tea tree oil copes with almost all troubles: rashes, inflammations, irritations and itching. It is applied pointwise to pimples or mixed with hemp oil.

Essential oil Botavikos Rose Damask 100% Essential oil Botavikos Meadowmint 100%

The right oil cocktail can do just about anything. What’s the catch?

That’s right. But still, you have to be careful. Natural ingredients can cause allergic reactions, so it’s best to test your skin’s response on the inner crook of your elbow beforehand. If all is well, congratulations, you can imagine yourself in the potions room and mix the perfect formulations for your skin yourself.

Essential oil differs from the base oil in that it is added to a care product, while cosmetic oil can be used independently. Most often, the oil has a wide spectrum of action, but there are those that can be applied to certain parts of the body.

Facial oils

Oil can be used both to cleanse the face (a wonderful hydrophilic oil was invented for this purpose) and to take care of it. The caring possibilities are extensive, given the general recommendations, it is better to use the oil in the evening, after cleansing the skin.

1. Oil for face, body and hair OKAY Argan. 2. Oil for face, body and hair OKAY Avocado 100%. 3. Hydrophilic face oil A`pieu Calendula. 4. Lip balm OKAY Shea butter in a jar.1. Physicians Formula Argan Wear Facial Oil. 2. Hada Labo Gokujyun hydrophilic facial oil with hyaluronic acid. 3. A`pieu Nonco Tea Tree facial oil in a video.

Make-up with oils

The oil can be easily integrated into almost any formulation. Manufacturers have begun to use this feature, and decorative cosmetics enriched with various natural oils are already on the shelves. The idea is wonderful. Combine the pleasant with the useful, especially since the inclusion of oils did not affect the decorative properties of cosmetics.

1. Wet’n’Wild Mega Last Lipstick. 2. Physicians Formula Argan Wear BB Foundation Light/Medium. 3. Pomade for eyebrows Wet’n’Wild Eye Brow Pomade tone Brunette.1. Lip balm Catrice Sheer Beautifying tone 030. 2. Lip oil Nyx Professional Makeup This iseverything tone Sheer Blush.

Eyelash and brow oils

There are special blends of oils that strengthen eyelashes and eyebrows and stimulate their accelerated growth. The tool is applied before bedtime, like regular mascara, does not cause any discomfort. Castor oil strengthens eyelashes and eyebrows, moisturizes them and supplies them with essential nutrients, promotes growth and allows them to stay in shape longer. Sea buckthorn oil improves the structure of hairs, strengthens them, makes them smoother.

1. Oil for growth and strengthening of eyelashes and eyebrows Vivienne Sabo Ideal Sublime burdock. 2. Oil for eyelashes DNC Walnut (strengthening).1. Oil for eyelashes and eyebrows DNC (nourishing). 2. Oil for face, body and hair OKAY Castor 100%.

Body butters

• Solid butter – butters are visually similar to a mixture of cream and butter. Pleasant to the touch, they are easily rubbed into the body without leaving behind stickiness and heaviness.
• Dry oil is a relatively new format. The oil is presented in the form of a spray. It is very easy to apply on the skin. It is instantly absorbed and quickly transforms the skin.
• Liquid oil – this oil is carefully poured or squeezed into the palm of the hand and applied to the body, like a cream.

1. Love Beauty And Planet Shea Butter & Sandalwood Oil Body Lotion Shea butter and sandalwood oil. 2. California Mango Body Cream Butter. 3. Oil for face, body and hair OKAY Ylang-ylang. 4. Solid body butter OKAY Coconut (solid).1. Tanning oil Botavikos SPF 15. 2. Solid oil Botanika Shea (shea) 100%. 3. EO Laboratorie Dry Body Butter Smoothness and firmness. 4. Naturalium Emotions Body Butter Coconut (extra-nourishing).

Nail oils

Nail and cuticle oil is one of the most effective nail care products. The oil perfectly penetrates into the structure of the nail plate and compacted cuticle, stimulates the growth of healthy nails, nourishes the matrix, improves the condition of the cuticle and slows down its growth. Just apply a drop of oil on the cuticle and gently rub into the nail. After a couple of weeks of daily use, you will see impressive results.

1. Mades hand cream Jojoba oil and honey extract. 2. Sally Hansen Nailcare Cuticle Oil. 3. Pink Up Nail Oil.1. Cream-serum for hands and nails Eveline Professional Argan & Vanilla. 2. Eveline nail and cuticle oil with avocado oil and vitamin complex.

Hair oils

Oil is rightfully considered a multifunctional hair care product. A couple of drops of oil on wet hair – and they are protected, and combing becomes much safer. Plus, depending on the composition, the hair is moisturized or filled with strength. A few drops at the time of styling will protect against high temperatures. Oil reflects ultraviolet radiation in summer, and saves from dry air in winter. The oil quickly penetrates the hair structure, delivering nutrients to the very depths. If you apply a double portion of the oil in the evening, it will act as a night mask. In the morning, just wash your hair and you will see how much better the condition of the hair has become. Oil can be enriched and ready-made masks.

1. Hair oil Hask Coconut Oil (nourishing). 2. Cream-oil for hair Garnier Botanic Therapy Castor oil and almonds firming. 3. Hair oil &Honey.1. EO Laboratorie hair oil to restore weakened and split ends. 2. Oil-elixir for hair Garnier Fructis (for all types of hair). 3. Got2b Oh My Nude Hair Dry Oil Shine Spray.

Important: oil will quickly transform dull, damaged and tired hair. However, you should not get carried away using it, especially on dyed hair. Applying too much oil can cause the color to wash out. Oil molecules easily penetrate under the scales and can push out the pigment.

If you already have oily skin, where else can you apply oil?

While it seems like oily skin doesn’t need extra hydration and oily textures will only make it worse, it’s not. The secretion of the pores almost does not depend on how oily we apply on the face. And absolutely any skin needs moisturizing, and no less oily than dry.

It turns out that oil can replace face or body cream?

Even more: if you feel comfortable, you can apply oils before cream or mix them. Could it be any oil? Even what’s in my kitchen? Not really. Cosmetic oils tend to be highly refined – what is good to eat, unfortunately, can clog pores. Plus, you probably don’t want to smell like fresh olive oil.

Speaking of clogged pores. Don’t all oils clog them?

Not really. Unfortunately or fortunately, the comedogenicity of oils (the ability to clog pores) is an ambiguous and individual thing. This is bad, because all the lists that divide oils into good and bad, in fact, do not make any sense and it is almost impossible to check how the oil will behave on your skin before buying. But also good, because it may turn out that your skin tolerates almost all oils.

See also

The use of natural oils in the care of the skin of newborns and infants | Ryumina I.I.

Introduction

Lipids play an important role in ensuring the full function of the skin, therefore, traditionally for skin care, including for newborns, oils of animal and vegetable origin, as well as mineral oil, were used. Most skin care products also use different oils, but the advantages and disadvantages of oils from different origins are still actively debated. Skin care practices for newborns and infants vary and are highly dependent on cultural traditions, the subjective experience of parents and healthcare professionals. In 2016, European skin care guidelines based on evidence-based clinical studies were published. According to modern recommendations, skin care practice should ensure the safety of the skin, the physiological adaptation of the skin barrier of newborns to environmental conditions, and protect against skin contact with potentially toxic substances [1].

Structural and functional features of the skin of newborns

Recent studies have shown that the skin of a healthy full-term newborn is characterized by structural and functional immaturity compared to the skin of an adult, the process of physiological maturation continues during the first year of life. The main function of the skin is to maintain internal homeostasis by preventing water loss, thermoregulation and protection from external influences, the penetration of microorganisms.

The barrier function of the skin mainly depends on the integrity of the uppermost – the stratum corneum – its structure is similar to a brick wall in which corneocytes, “bricks”, are surrounded by intercellular lipid plates, acting as a mortar, which ensures the integrity and permeability of the skin at the same time. During differentiation, the plasma membrane of the outer keratinocytes is replaced by a keratinized sheath of corneocytes, which gives the cells a certain rigidity.

The skin of the fetus can fully realize all functions already from the 30th week of gestation, at the 34th week the epidermis is already well developed in the fetus, by the 37th week the stratum corneum almost completely matures. The upper layer of the epidermis, despite its thickness of only 7-35 microns, which is on average 20-30% less than in an adult, mainly performs the protective and regulatory functions of the skin barrier. Corneocytes in newborns are smaller, since after birth there is an active proliferation of cells, while the maturation of cells occurs relatively slowly, this process persists in the second year of life. The skin of the newborn is also more susceptible to stretching and contraction due to the weak dermoepidermal junction. After birth, in the process of adaptation to the ectopic environment, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface pH and water permeability of the stratum corneum change, which affects transepidermal fluid loss (TELL). The stratum corneum of the skin of newborns and infants contains more water, but less natural moisturizing factors, because of this, skin hydration at birth is reduced, TEWL increases, and therefore the skin of newborns after birth is much drier than in adults. The stratum corneum hydration and pH of the skin surface constantly change during the neonatal period, the rate of these changes depending on the area of ​​the body and on the care of the child [2–4]. During the first month of life, skin hydration in infants increases and at the age of 3-24 months. becomes higher than in adults [5, 6]. During this period, the stratum corneum is smoothed out. The water content of the skin also affects the barrier function by regulating the activity of hydrolytic enzymes that are involved in the maturation and desquamation of corneocytes. Components of the natural moisturizing factor in corneocytes, such as free amino acids, pyrrolidonecarboxylic, lactic, urocanic acids, organic acids, peptides, sugars, urea, citrate, glycerol and many others, contribute to the hydration of the stratum corneum. Filaggrin, one of the markers of terminal differentiation of the epidermis, also provides
hydration of the stratum corneum, is broken down into free amino acids, which are further metabolized to hygroscopic derivatives, such as pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid – a glutamine derivative and urocanic acid – a histidine derivative.

At birth, skin pH characterizes the environment as alkaline. In the first seven days, the pH changes from almost neutral to neutral with a subsequent decrease over the course of a month, as the acidic reaction of the skin provides protection against the penetration of pathogenic microorganisms [7]. The underdeveloped acid mantle and skin microbiome, the gradual maturation of the immune defense system cause a higher risk of pathological microbial colonization and the frequent occurrence of infectious and inflammatory skin diseases in newborns and infants, especially with care defects.

Currently, the influence of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-1α on the maturation of the skin barrier of the fetus and newborn is being actively studied. It has been established that a relatively low level of this cytokine increases in the neonatal period, which may contribute to the maturation of the skin barrier [8]. Microbial colonization of human skin begins immediately after birth, but the necessary balance between the numerous microorganisms that colonize the skin of a child is not achieved until the end of the first year of life. It has been suggested that microbial colonization of the skin in the neonatal period significantly affects the development of the immune function of the skin and, possibly, the maturation of other barrier functions, as well as the development of the immune system as a whole [9].

Thus, the immune defense system of the skin of a newborn and a child of the first year of life, consisting of immediate non-specific (innate immunity) and delayed (adaptive immunity) mechanisms, is in the process of maturation, which makes their skin vulnerable.

In the keratinocytes of the granular layer, lipids are synthesized – precursors of ceramides, free fatty acids (FFA), cholesterol, some of which are then released from the lamellar (lamellar) bodies into the space between the stratum corneum and the granular layer, while the remaining lipids are secreted to the surface of the skin by the sebaceous glands (sebaceous glands). salo). The barrier providing skin permeability depends on the state of the intercellular matrix containing ceramides, FFA and cholesterol. After secretion from lamellar bodies, intercellular lipids are modified under the influence of enzymes and become intercellular plates. They mainly consist of saturated fatty acids, among which palmitic (C16:0), stearic (C18:0), behenic (C22:0), lignoceric (C24:0) and hexacosanoic (C26:0) acids predominate [10] . The content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic (C18:1, n-9), eicosapentaenoic (C20:5, n-3), arachidonic (C20:4, n-6), docosahexaenoic (C22:6, n-3) acids, and linoleic acid (C18:2, n-6) and its derivatives are linolenic [α-linolenic (C18:3, n-3), γ-linolenic (C18:3, n-6)] and dihomo-γ-linolenic (C20:3, n-6) acids, much less in the stratum corneum than saturated FFA. Linoleic acid is the most common polyunsaturated fatty acid; however, in addition to linoleic and arachidonic acids, other FFAs are also synthesized in keratinocytes [11].

The epidermis is also characterized by an active metabolism of polyunsaturated FFAs. Linoleic acid, the main 18-carbon n-6 polyunsaturated FFA in normal epidermis, is metabolized in the epidermis via the 15-lipoxygenase pathway, mainly to 13-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid, which has antiproliferative properties [12].

Arachidonic acid, the second most important polyunsaturated FFA in the skin, is another substrate of 15-lipoxygenase, by which it is converted to 15-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid (15-HETE). 15-HETE inhibits leukotriene B4-induced chemotaxis of polymorphonuclear neutrophils [13]. However, arachidonic acid is mainly metabolized via the cyclooxygenase pathway to prostaglandins E2, F2α, and D2. At low concentrations, prostaglandins modulate skin homeostasis, while at high concentrations they induce skin inflammation and hyperproliferation of keratinocytes [14].

Effect of vegetable oils on skin function

Vegetable oils have long been used for skin care for cosmetic and medical purposes, since they have a positive effect on the physiological processes in the skin, are characterized by high bioavailability and act mainly locally without causing systemic effects [15]. Natural oils are used in many countries as part of newborn skin care, but there are few studies supporting this practice in terms of evidence-based medicine. The question of the use of pure (edible) vegetable oil in the routine practice of skin care for newborns and children in the first year of life still remains open.

Vegetable oils are divided into essential and fatty. Studies have shown that almond, jojoba, soybean and avocado oils, when applied topically, mostly remain on the surface without penetrating deep into the skin. It is known that the application of natural oil can act as a protective barrier through an occlusive effect, helping the skin to retain moisture, which leads to a decrease in VEWL. Although triglycerides do not penetrate deep into the stratum corneum, glycerol helps to hydrate it. FFAs, especially monounsaturated ones, such as oleic acid, can disrupt the skin barrier and increase skin permeability to other compounds present in vegetable oils [16]. Other components, such as phenolic compounds and tocopherols, have an antioxidant effect and may affect skin barrier homeostasis, inflammation, and wound healing [17, 18].

Experimental studies have shown that phospholipids contained in vegetable oils increase skin permeability, have an anti-inflammatory effect by regulating covalently bound ω-hydroxyceramides in the epidermis and reducing the expression of activation genes for regulated thymic chemokine and stromal lymphopoietin [19, 20].

In many countries, olive oil, sunflower seed oil and other vegetable fatty oils are used in routine skin care for newborns and infants. In South Asia and Sub-Saharan Africa, various vegetable oils have traditionally been used as topical emollients, such as widely available mustard seed oil for its emollient, warming effect, and aroma, but it can be toxic to skin keratinocytes, such as as well as pure olive oil [21–23]. In maternity and neonatal intensive care units in the UK, olive oil is often used as a skin emollient [24].

Olive oil has been used for skin care since ancient Egypt, and although this skin care product has become popular in many countries, only a small number of studies have been published showing its emollient effect [25-28].

Randomized controlled trials have shown that, unlike sunflower oil, olive oil, whose predominant component is oleic acid, significantly damages the skin barrier and, therefore, can contribute to the development of dermatitis and exacerbate already existing atopic dermatitis. In this regard, it is not recommended to use pure olive oil to soften dry skin and massage in infants, but this does not apply to cosmetic products, including children, which include olive oil [28].

A. Cooke et al. [29], in a blinded, randomized controlled trial in healthy full-term infants stratified by family history of atopic eczema, showed that olive oil and sunflower oil equally improved skin hydration, but did not affect the structure of the intercellular plates, pH, TEWZ, and the severity of skin erythema according to compared with the group of children who did not use oil. The study was not clinically relevant, but until further research is done, oils should be cautiously recommended for newborn skin care. Although there are conflicting clinical data on the benefits of olive oil as an emollient, laboratory studies indicate that it may be harmful due to its main component, oleic acid, which increases skin permeability by decreasing the conformational order of stratum corneum lipids and causing lipid phase separation [ thirty]. Oleic acid can also induce inflammation via N-methyl-D-aspartic acid receptors in keratinocytes. Molecular inhibitors of these receptors reduce the TEWL induced by the application of oleic acid to the skin of mice [31].

In vitro studies of confirm that olive oil and oleic acid have little to no antibacterial activity, although there is evidence that olive oil, containing in particular the antioxidant hydroxytyrosol, has antifungal activity [26]. However, its use in certain skin conditions, such as seborrheic dermatitis, should be approached with caution because olive oil contains saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, which can stimulate the growth of some fungi and induce inflammation [32]. It is also important to consider the risk of allergic contact dermatitis caused by olive oil [33].

In recent years, coconut oil has become increasingly popular, which contains a large amount of lauric acid, which has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects [34]. Monolaurin, a monoglyceride derived from lauric acid, exhibits antimicrobial activity by destroying the lipid membrane of bacteria, including Propionibacterium acnes , Staphylococcus aureus , and Staphylococcus epidermidis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, Proteus vulgaris and Bacillus subtilis [35]. Cell culture studies have also shown that monolaurin exhibits antiviral and antifungal activity [36].

Coconut oil has been proven to have beneficial effects on the skin barrier in newborns and adults. In a randomized, blind study, coconut oil use during the first seven days of life in preterm infants was found to reduce VELV by almost 50% compared to non-oil treated infants, confirming the effectiveness of coconut oil as an emollient [37] . M.T.P. Evangelista et al. [38] when using coconut oil and mineral oil for skin treatment in children, found a statistically significantly lower rate of TEVC and Scoring Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) in the coconut oil group than in the mineral oil group, which also confirms the effectiveness of the former.

Sunflower oil contains oleic, palmitic, stearic, linolenic and linoleic acids, the share of the latter reaching 60%. It has been proven that linoleic acid is essential for maintaining the normal barrier function of the epidermis. Skin inflammation is modulated by the conversion of linoleic acid to arachidonic acid, a prostaglandin E2 precursor. According to a randomized controlled trial using vaseline and sunflower oil in newborns and infants in Bangladesh, the supposed anti-inflammatory effect of the oils and the increase in skin barrier properties reduce mortality in preterm infants due to their lower incidence of nosocomial infections [39]. In another prospective randomized study on the treatment of the skin of premature infants with sunflower oil, V. Kanti et al. [40] found a higher level of TEWL than in the control group, indicating a violation of the skin barrier, although the authors noted that all indicators remained in the range of values ​​previously described in healthy preterm and term infants after birth.

Studies of the effect of natural oils and the synthetic emollient Aquaphor on epidermal barrier function in mice have shown that mustard seed oil has a detrimental effect on the epidermal barrier, while sunflower oil and Aquaphor, on the contrary, significantly accelerate epidermal repair [21, 41]. Clinical studies [39, 40] found that sunflower oil massage resulted in a 41% reduction in the incidence of sepsis in newborns and infants and a 26% reduction in mortality compared with the control group. This fact highlights the potential of inexpensive, culturally acceptable alternatives to the traditional mustard seed oil for skin care in low birth weight preterm infants in South Asia. The Project on Disease Control Priorities in Developing Countries (DCP2) has identified emollient research as a global priority [42].

Essential oils are volatile, with a characteristic strong odor and taste, oily (oily), insoluble in water, mostly colorless or slightly colored liquids that evaporate already at room temperature. Essential oils are formed in plants, so they are distinguished by the types of plants from which they are obtained (mint, lavender, rose, etc.). Essential oils are a mixture of several separate chemical compounds – terpenes and their derivatives (terpenoids), which are hydrocarbons and are characterized by the fact that their molecules contain many unsaturated carbon bonds, which determine the high chemical activity of these substances. Most essential oils dissolve well in alcohol, lipids and fatty oils, waxes and other lipophilic substances, and in this form are very widely used in perfumery, food industry, medicine, and also in everyday life to improve physical and psychological well-being. Essential oils are well absorbed through the skin and affect the olfactory system, which is why they are most often applied topically or in the form of inhalations. When applied topically, such as for massage, it is usually recommended to add fatty oils to the essential oil. The most commonly used essential oils for therapeutic purposes are lavender, eucalyptus, rosemary, chamomile, and peppermint, although more than forty essential oils are known worldwide. Essential oils currently available for medical use are generally recognized as safe by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). For children, and especially newborns, there are no uniform recommendations for the use of essential oils, taking into account the effectiveness and safety. The American Association of Naturopathic Physicians generally does not recommend the use of essential oils in children under 3 months of age. life, but this opinion is not confirmed by scientific research [43].

It should be emphasized that there are few but high-quality empirical reviews that have studied the effectiveness of the use of essential oils for pain relief, including in children [44]. Much of the research on the use of aromatherapy to reduce pain has focused on therapeutic massage, making the isolated effects of essential oils without massage unclear.

N. Goubet et al. [45] used lavender aromatherapy to relieve the pain associated with blood draws in infants and showed that these infants calmed down faster than those who did not receive lavender aromatherapy [45]. Other researchers, comparing the effects of the smell of amniotic fluid, breast milk, distilled water, and lavender on the reduction of pain, assessed by the Newborn Pain Scale (NIPS), when taking blood from the heel, also showed that the smells of lavender and breast milk prevent an increase in heart rate, drop in saturation (saturation) of hemoglobin with oxygen and reduce pain during invasive procedures in newborns to a greater extent than amniotic fluid or distilled water [46].

Children treated for serious illnesses often experience stress that is not directly related to their illness, so a holistic approach to care is an integral part of treatment [47]. Massage with lavender oil effectively reduced the symptoms of colic in term infants aged 2 to 6 weeks. [48–50].

Essential oils and their aromatic compounds are a very important ingredient in perfumery and cosmetics products, in particular in skin care products for newborns and young children. At present, a single standard for the certification of natural cosmetics has been created, and in 2010, the international non-profit organization COSMOS-standard AISBL was established. There is also the Unified European certification system for natural and organic cosmetics – NaTrue (www.natrue.org), according to which three levels of natural cosmetics are distinguished: natural cosmetics, natural cosmetics with the presence of organic components and organic cosmetics. NaTrue has developed a unified approach to product certification for any cosmetics manufacturer, as well as a common evaluation system for all European consumers. The main task of NaTrue is to determine the quality of manufactured natural cosmetics according to its own system of standards. According to the NaTrue 9 standard0192 natural cosmetics must contain natural ingredients (but not necessarily of organic origin). In the process of obtaining and processing raw materials, exclusively sparing technologies should be used, and depending on the category of a cosmetic product, the maximum and minimum content of certain components in it should be strictly regulated. Products classified as natural cosmetics with the addition of organic matter must contain at least 70% natural ingredients grown in an organic farm or collected in ecologically clean areas, as well as at least 15% natural substances not modified by chemical processes, and not more than 15% components identical to natural.

Organic cosmetics is characterized by the highest content of chemically unaltered natural substances, at least 95% of natural ingredients must be grown in environmentally friendly conditions. Only natural preservatives are allowed, while the use of petrochemicals or other synthetic products, such as mineral oils, is prohibited.

Conclusion

Currently, there is no consensus on which oil is best for skin care of newborns and infants, in addition, there are traditions and certain preferences among both parents and healthcare professionals. It does not appear that any oil or oil-containing product can be recommended as the best, but neonatologists and pediatricians should be aware of the benefits and potential negative effects of oils based primarily on evidence-based information. Given the structural and functional features of the skin of newborns and young children, further research is needed on the effect of various oils in terms of their effectiveness and safety.

Information about the author:

Ryumina Irina Ivanovna — Doctor of Medical Sciences, Head of the Department of Pathology of Newborns and Premature Babies, Professor of the Department of Neonatology, N.N. IN AND. Kulakov”; 117997, Russia, Moscow, st. Academician Oparina, 4; ORCID iD 0000-0003-1831-887X.

Contact information: Ryumina Irina Ivanovna, e-mail: [email protected]. Transparency of financial activities: the author has no financial interest in the presented materials or methods. There is no conflict of interest.