Ways to Stop a Dog from Whining

DOGS WHINING: OVERVIEW

1. Identify the cause of your dog’s whining so you can determine the appropriate modification response.

2. Implement other procedures and products that can help your dog be more calm.

3. Seek veterinary assistance if your dog’s anxiety is excessive.

I’m pretty tolerant of annoying dog behaviors, and still, I have to admit, whining gets on my nerves. Our beloved Kelpie, Kai, whines. When he does, I have to remind myself that, rather than getting annoyed, I should value my dog’s efforts to communicate, and figure out why the whining is happening. The “why” can be an important first step in modifying many behaviors, especially those that involve vocalization of some sort.

Why Do Dogs Whine?

Dogs whine for a variety of reasons. Understanding your dog’s motivation for whining will lead you to the appropriate modification approach. Misinterpreting the whine, or simply chastising or otherwise punishing your dog for whining, can exacerbate the behavior and even give rise to other more serious behavioral issues. Consider these possible causes:

• Pain or Discomfort. When your dog is whining, the very important first step you should take is to identify and treat – or rule out – pain or discomfort. If your dog hurts, all the modification in the world isn’t going to fix it.

Your dog may be too cold or too hot. Adjust the environment accordingly. Maybe his bedding is soiled. Give him a clean, dry blanket. Perhaps he’s crated and really has to go to the bathroom. (This was explained to me recently by my dog Bonnie, when she was suffering from loose stools and had to go out at 3 a.m. If I had ignored her whining instead of rushing her outside, or worse, reprimanded her for disturbing my sleep, I would have paid a heavy clean-up price for being so unfair to my dog.)

It can be difficult to determine if dogs are in pain. Sure, sometimes they limp, flinch when you touch them, or otherwise make it clear that they hurt, but sometimes they don’t. Dogs can be pretty stoic. Plus, if they have bilateral pain (hurting equally on both sides) there’s no point in limping; it just makes it hurt more on the other side.

If you think your dog may be in pain and your veterinarian can’t find anything, ask about using carprofen or some other nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) as a diagnostic tool. If the behavior stops when he is medicated, and returns when the medication stops, it’s a good indication that it’s pain related.

While NSAIDs (such as Rimadyl) can have the potential for gastrointestinal, kidney, and liver side effects, long-term pain results in very poor quality of life. Some studies indicate that as many as 20 percent of dogs over the age of one year may suffer from osteoarthritis. Certainly, many dogs face increasing loss of mobility as they age due to the onset of arthritis. If your dog is whining due to pain, help him be comfortable. (See “Don’t Fear NSAIDs for Your Dog,” below.)

• Stress. Stress is the other major reason that dogs whine. (Pain is a stressor too, so in reality all whining is due to stress, but let’s take a look at the non-pain-related stressors that can cause whining. )

• Anxiety. This is probably one of the most common causes of whining. The answer seems obvious, but I’ll say it anyway: To reduce anxiety-related whining, you need to reduce your dog’s anxiety, whatever the cause.

Distress over separation or isolation (and the anticipation thereof) are two common anxiety-related behaviors, but there are countless other reasons your dog may be anxious. Anything that causes him to be fearful can contribute to this type of whining, and some breeds even seem to have a genetic predisposition to whining.

To help him be less anxious so he will whine less, make a list of things that cause your dog fear or stress, and pick two or three to start counter-conditioning, that is, changing how he feels about those things, so they no longer cause him stress or fear. When you can tick one stressor off your list, pick another to begin working on, until you have addressed enough of them that whining is no longer a problem. Additionally, anxiety-induced and the other types of whining may improve with the application of the ever-growing list of various tools and protocols we have to help our dogs be calm. (More on this below.) Click here for more information about reducing your dog’s anxieties.

• Frustration. This is also one of the more common causes of whining – and it’s the whining that our Kai does. I include “demand whining” under this heading; while some sources list it as a separate category, I consider them the same. A dog who is whining to “demand” something is frustrated that he isn’t getting what he wants – hence, the frustration whine.

The best way to help a frustrated whiner is to take away his frustration, preferably by preempting the behavior. I know that Kai will whine at agility class as he impatiently waits his turn to run. I can preempt his whine by giving him a stuffed Kong or other food-dispensing toy to take his mind off his troubles until it’s our turn. If you do this before the whining starts, you won’t reinforce the unwanted behavior.

• Excitement. Yes, some dogs whine just because they are so happy they can barely contain themselves. It’s not as common as anxiety and frustration whining. Although this is happy whining, there is still some stress involved, though it is eustress (good stress) rather than (bad) stress. Excited whining is often part of a greeting behavior, so I would be less concerned about this compared to the other types of whining that stem from distress.

However, if you do want to reduce your dog’s excitement whining, ask him to engage in another behavior as part of your greeting ritual to shift his brain from excitement mode into thinking mode. One example: Keep a basket of toys outside your house, and as you enter, toss a toy for your dog to retrieve or play with.

• Appeasement. This is another not-so-common presentation of whining, and generally offered in social interactions with other dogs. In this case, it is a healthy communication, and not one you want to interfere with.

Don’t Punish Your Dog for Whining

Some sources recommend punishing a dog’s whine by using a squirt bottle, or worse. Others suggest a more benign form of punishment – removing your attention from the whiner. Generally I am vehemently opposed to the use of positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen), but when appropriate, I am not opposed to negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away).

That said, I do not believe it’s appropriate to use even negative punishment with a dog who is stressed; it’s removing your support when he needs you the most!

I know all too well that whining can be annoying, but I feel it’s important to keep foremost in your mind that most whining is a function of stress; while you may suppress the whining with punishment, you add another stressor, which is likely to exacerbate other stress-related behaviors. A better plan is to figure out why your dog is whining, reduce the stressors in his life, and help him change his behavior.

Teaching Calmness to Dogs

Fortunately, as the force-free training movement blessedly continues to gain momentum and we understand there are far better ways than punishment to help our stressed dogs be calm, our access to resources to help us accomplish that goal continues to grow. Here are some of the many options, in addition to counter-conditioning and desensitization, for helping your dog be calm. (Note: Some of these may work on some dogs and not others. Keep trying until you find what works for yours.):

- Exercise. Not only does exercise use up energy your dog might otherwise expend in anxiety-related behaviors, a good round of aerobic exercise causes the release of feel-good endorphins (think “runner’s high”) that actually can help your dog be less anxious.

- Choice. According to Susan G. Friedman, PhD (psychology), “The power to control one’s own outcomes is essential to behavioral health.” Teaching your dog a “choice” cue and looking for opportunities to give him choices in his life can help ease anxieties.

- Positively reinforce for calm. We tend to pay attention to our dogs when they act up, and ignore them when they are calm. Remember to quietly reinforce your dog when he is calm (soft praise, a calmly dropped treat) and you are likely to see more calm behavior.

- Dr. Karen Overall’s Protocol for Relaxation. Dr. Overall is a veterinary behaviorist with an unflinching commitment to force-free training and handling. Her very detailed day-by-day protocol can be used to help your dog relax. It’s laid out as a 15-day protocol, but you can take longer if your dog needs a slower pace, and break the small steps into even smaller ones as necessary to help your dog succeed.

- Karen Overall Protocol for Teaching a Dog to Take a Deep Breath. I know that your dog already knows how to breathe! This exercise, a calming form of biofeedback, teaches him how to cease stress-related panting and breathe through his nose. Think of times that you were stressed and your friends may have reminded you to “Breathe!”

- Massage. Done properly, massage can be as relaxing for your dog as it is for you (assuming your dog does not find touch aversive). If used in conjunction with a scent such as lavender, which has calming properties of its own, you can then use the scent in other venues to help your dog calm himself, due to its association with the calming massage.

- TTouch. Another form of calming touch developed by Linda Tellington-Jones, TTouch uses specific types of touch, movement, wraps, and other equipment to help a dog learn to relax.

- Calming Cap (also known as Thunder Cap). Similar to the hood used to keep a captive falcon calm, the Calming Cap reduces the intensity of visual stimuli to help your dog stay calm. Your dog can see through the Calming Cap, but details are blurred. It can be very useful for dogs who have difficulty staying below threshold. Remember to associate the Calming Cap with treats so your dog learns to love having it put on.

- Thunder Shirt. This product (or other snug-fitting dog-shirt) functions on the same principle as swaddling an infant. Studies show that infants who are swaddled cry less, and the extrapolation is that dogs can also be comforted by the feeling of being held; the Thunder Shirt seems to work for many dogs.

- Adaptil. Previously known as Comfort Zone, Dog Appeasing Pheromone, and DAP), this is a synthetic substance that is meant to mimic the natural pheromones that are emitted by a mother dog nursing her puppies. The biological effect of the natural pheromone helps calm the puppies; this product purports to do the same for adult dogs. It is available in a spray, plug-in, and collar. While some professionals report good results with the product, others feel strongly that it is snake oil. We put it in the “can’t hurt, might help” category.

- Through a Dog’s Ear. This is music, specifically selected for its potential to calm dogs. The Through a Dog’s Ear music selections are sold as CDs, or in a marvelous, small (21/2 by 3 inches), portable unit called the iCalmDog that has amazing sound quality. It’s very calming for humans; if I play it in my office while I’m working I’ll fall asleep at my desk! Play this music when things are calm in your home to help your dog relax and so he forms a very good association with it, and then you can also use it during counter-conditioning practice to give him the same calm association that he had when it was playing at home.

- Nutraceuticals.These products, isolated or purified from foods, are generally sold in medicinal forms not usually associated with food. A nutraceutical is demonstrated to have a physiological benefit or provide protection against chronic disease. Two that are FDA-approved for use in dogs are Anxitane (L-theanine) and Zylkene (casein). If they interest you, discuss them with your veterinarian to be sure she is comfortable with their use for your dog. If so, you can get them through your vet or online. I have had success with over the counter L-theanine. I buy the capsules, so I can open them and sprinkle the contents on my dog’s food. If you get the chewable tablets, be sure you do not get any that contain xylitol, which is deadly toxic to dogs.

Medication for Dogs with Anxiety

In addition to all the things mentioned above, there are a variety of psychotropic drugs that can help ease your dog’s stress and anxiety. I tend to recommend the medication route to clients when their dogs have a level of anxiety that is clearly destructive to the quality of life for canine and/or human. These must be obtained from a veterinarian, and here’s the rub: Most veterinary schools do not require vet students to take classes in behavior, and most veterinarians aren’t very well-informed about behavior modification drugs. Well-meaning as they are, they can easily prescribe the wrong medication – sometimes even (unintentionally) recommending a medication that makes behavior worse instead of better.

As a non-veterinarian, it’s not appropriate (or legal) for me to suggest specific medications to clients. The good news is that many veterinary behaviorists offer free phone consultations to other vets who want information regarding appropriate medication selection and dosage for their clients’ animal companions. Even if your veterinarian charges you something for her time to do the research, it shouldn’t be cost prohibitive, and the consult will be well worth the cost.

Your vet can find contact information for veterinary behaviorists on the website for the American College for Veterinary Behaviorists.

Don’t Fear NSAIDs for Your Dog: There Are Worse Fates!

When Rimadyl (carprofen) first came into general usage in the early 1990s, there were alarming reports of dogs who suffered from liver and kidney damage after being given the drug, including some fatalities. However, two-plus decades later, reports indicate that the actual incidence of negative side effects is exceedingly low (.02 percent) and that most (70 percent) of those affected are geriatric dogs. Initially, veterinarians advised regular blood tests for dogs on Rimadyl as long as the dog was taking the drug. At least one recent study suggests that dogs who are going to have a bad reaction to the drug will have it early, and ongoing regular blood tests may not be necessary.

My first Kelpie suffered from severe arthritis in the mid 1990s at the age of 12, after a decade-plus of energetic activity. I was very close to euthanizing her to relieve her pain. When my veterinarian, Dr. Diana Phillips, suggested Rimadyl, I balked.
“I’ve heard some pretty bad things about Rimadyl,” I said.

Dr. Phillips responded bluntly, “You’re thinking about killing your dog tomorrow … how bad can the Rimadyl be?”

Oh. Duh.

Rimadyl bought me two more years of quality life with my beloved Keli, she suffered no ill-effects from the drug, and Dr. Phillips’ words have stayed with me. I often share this story with clients who are reluctant to consider pain relief for their dogs who are hurting. A simple pain relief medication just may make your dog look (and, of course, more importantly) feel so much better that you may forget he’s got anything wrong with him at all.

Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She and her husband Paul live in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Miller is also the author of many books on positive training. Her newest is Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs.

How To Write Will A Muzzle Stop A Dog From Whining – Rebecca Blog

Muzzles are often used on dogs who bite people, but they can also be useful for controlling a dog’s barking or whining. Many owners would like to muzzle their pet but don’t know if the activity is worth the time and effort. After all, it’s not as though you could simply put a muzzle on your dog every time he starts barking to stop him from doing so.

For the muzzle to be effective, it should be used for cases where your dog is barking due to anxiety, fear or aggression. However, too often people use muzzles because they think that their dog will not stop whining. If you are one of these owners then this article should help you understand when muzzles should and shouldn’t be used.

How can a muzzle stop a dog from barking? They’re designed specifically to avoid letting dogs open their mouths. Unless your dog is particularly strong, they can’t force a muzzle off by opening their mouth against it. This is the biggest benefit behind using a muzzle on a constnatly whining pup. A problem with many owners’ understanding of muzzling comes from watching movies or TV.

These are typically situations where a dog is barking or growling at someone, but the muzzle itself isn’t being forced onto the dog. It’s easy to imagine that if you were able to put a muzzle on your pup when they are whining, then it would stop them from doing so. However, this isn’t how muzzles work. Instead of locking the jaws shut, they simply prevent dogs from opening their mouths. Most canines who are whining don’t do so because they’re trying to bite you; rather, it’s an emotional response or reaction to something outside of themselves.

Should I use a muzzle on my dog?

There are many circumstances under which owners choose not to let their dogs wear muzzles. Unless you are dealing with a dog who is constantly barking, whining or growling at you, it might not be necessary. Additionally, muzzles can make dogs feel very anxious and uncomfortable. If possible, try to find ways of avoiding the need for your pet to wear it. If your dog is constantly whining due to anxiety (and he is otherwise well-behaved), then this means that his feelings are more important than stopping him from barking right now. After all, most people would prefer their pup simply whine rather than bark or bite them out of fear or anger.

Muzzle does not stop barking

Muzzles should only be used when needed so they don’t cause more problems than they. When owners begin using muzzles to simply stop dogs from whining, then they are more likely to cause problems later on. This does not mean that you should let your pet continue with this behavior; however, it does mean that there isn’t an immediate need for the muzzle. Once you have identified the root issue behind your dog’s behavior (if it is due to anxiety or fear) and dealt with it, then the muzzle can be useful again.

Muzzle puppies

Puppies grow up very quickly so don’t wait too long if you want one to help with your pup’s anxiety issues before he grows into his adult jaws. The longer you wait after trying other methods like calming chews or homeopathic treatments, the it will be for him to get used to the muzzle. For some dogs, this will be too late and they will have already formed a negative association with it. There is also a chance that once your dog reaches adulthood, he simply won’t respond well to muzzles anymore.

As your dog gets older, it isn’t just his teeth that grow but also his strength. If you don’t think about when to stop using a muzzle at the right time then you may find yourself in a situation where nothing can help him feel comfortable with wearing one. This could result in an injury for both of you — for example, if he tries to bark or whine and ends up breaking one of his teeth from forcing against his mouthpiece or if he’s not able to breathe properly and panics.

Whining in dogs

When your dog is whining due to anxiety or fear, it often won’t be possible for you to stop him from doing so. This is especially true when the problem stems from a negative association with something and not just his own emotions and feelings. For example, if your pup whines whenever he gets groomed then this could stem from painful or frightening experiences at the groomer’s or even simply because of the noise that dryers make. In this case, it will be near impossible for you to get rid of your dog’s anxiety without practicing desensitization techniques before hand (i.e., using positive training combined with classical conditioning).

Reasons why you should consult a veterinarian

To make sure your dog doesn’t have a medical condition. b. To make sure you are using the right muzzle for his breed and size. c. For other helpful tips such as how to introduce them to your pet or when to take off during walks (i.e., not to choke).

Muzzle should only be used when needed

Whining is an emotional response and while you can reduce it by training, muzzles don’t work that way and should only be used when necessary and not simply because you want your pup to stop whining.

Muzzle for dogs with anxiety Whining in dogs | Whining due to anxiety or fear will not be possible for you to stop him from doing so.

Factors that can affect your pet’s experience with a muzzle:

1. His breed (e. g., some dogs, like greyhounds or Shih Tzus, have long and narrow muzzles). b. His size (e.g., smaller dogs typically do not hold their muzzles well when they chew) c. How well he tolerates certain materials such as plastic versus metal taste and feel d. Temperature changes in the environment e. Stressors such as unfamiliar surroundings or people f. Teeth issues such as loose teeth or lack of teeth g. Thirst h. Whether he is full-grown i. Whether you introduce it properly j . If you use them for negative experiences too often without allowing him to take them off of his own free will k. If you wait too long to stop using them l. How often you can use them without overusing them

Muzzle puppies | Muzzle puppies must never be used for punishment or as a training tool, even if your dog doesn’t have any issues with wearing it. nk of the mouth and allow him to eat food in which he cannot bite into pieces that are too large or swallow something that could put him at risk for choking. It may be helpful to try out the muzzle on yourself before putting it on your pup so you can get an idea of how comfortable (or uncomfortable) they feel when wearing one. This way you’ll know what types of things make it difficult or not for your pup to wear it and can better prepare him for future use.

Types of muzzles that you might consider:

1. A basket muzzle is the most common type of muzzle simply because they allow your dog to pant, drink, bark, and pick up items. b. Wire cages are a great option when dealing with barking issues because the open design allows the owner to see what their pet is doing while also preventing them from opening their mouth wide enough to bite someone or something. c. Leather muzzles with holes provide more freedom than a traditional wire cage but won’t be as effective with excessive barking due to less exposure of your pet’s face and lack of airflow for cooling off his body heat during warmer months. d. Basket muzzles may not be effective for dogs who constantly salivate, since the open top will give them more space to work with in order to get saliva everywhere.

Muzzle use for at-home activities:

If you plan on using a muzzle during at-home times (e.g., when you are teaching him tricks or allowing him to roam free around the house), consider purchasing one that is made of leather and only has two straps in order to prevent tugging due to chewing or struggling against it. Muzzles can also help reduce resource guarding behaviors by allowing family members to feed your dog without fear of getting bitten.

Muzzle use for out-of-the-house activities:

When taking your dog out of the house, consider using a muzzle that not only has more straps for strength and security but also has an adjustable strap that can be tightened or loosened as needed. This way you will avoid any struggle if your pet decides to pull away from you by tightening the strap around his snout.

What owners should never do:

When purchasing or putting on your pup’s muzzle, they should never make him feel uncomfortable due to the wrong material (i. e., a wire cage in warm weather), trying to put it on too quickly without allowing him time to acclimate, fitting it incorrectly, or wearing it for long periods of time without giving your dog enough breaks from it. Also, if they are severely struggling against it, do not keep trying to put it on repeatedly. This is only going to make your dog more uneasy about wearing it in the future or even get them used to struggling more when you try to remove it.

What owners should always do:

When purchasing a muzzle for your pet, make sure they are made of safe materials (i.e., won’t corrode his teeth with constant chewing), allow him enough time to acclimate himself to wearing one if he has never had an experience with one before, ensure that it fits properly so that their airway is never blocked, and be patient when fitting it over his nose so that you don’t further stress him out by forcing it on too quickly without allowing him some time to adapt.

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How to wean a dog from whining

Usually puppies whine, but when an adult dog does it, many people find it difficult to understand why he does it. This creates inconvenience for family members, in addition, quarrels with neighbors may arise if the dog lives in a high-rise apartment. Residents of private houses also face this problem, from time to time locking dogs in an aviary. In fact, weaning a dog from this bad habit is not difficult. You just need to follow the tips given below.

It’s easy to wean a puppy from whining, but it’s not difficult to re-educate an adult dog, if you suddenly got one, for example, from a dog shelter, or if you thought late that you need to wean a dog from whining. In general, dogs whine because they are afraid of being abandoned. They are very afraid of loneliness and, when they lose sight of the owner, they begin to panic and whine. With the help of this sound, the animal informs the person about his emotions – grief, fear. In nature, this helps puppies survive – whining, they call for help from the leaders of the pack. If the dog has not whined before, and suddenly starts to whimper, perhaps something hurts her and she needs to be taken to the veterinary clinic for a checkup.

Dogs may whine at the training ground or just outside, in anticipation of an interesting game or other event. They are impatient to start doing something as soon as possible, and they express it with the help of whining. Such a dog needs to be taught to concentrate. You can teach this with the help of praise and treats – let it always be with you when you walk the dog.

If the dog is whining simply “out of habit” or out of boredom, out of fear that YOU are going somewhere without him, you need to wean him from this as soon as possible. Lock her in a separate room and when she whines, do nothing. But then, when she stops making sounds, even for a couple of minutes, open the door and praise the dog, give her a treat, pet her. She will soon learn that not whining is much more effective than whining, and to achieve any result. Repeat this “exercise” several times until the dog masters this skill. Soon it will be possible to leave the house altogether, and leave the dog. She should then be praised if she does not whine.

The most important thing to remember is that when your dog whines, never praise or comfort him. When you feel sorry for her, she takes it as an encouragement for her action, and, of course, continues to do so. Yelling doesn’t make sense either. It’s best to ignore whining. Unlike human children, dog puppies do not need to be comforted and petted. If they are ironed at this moment, then this can only exacerbate this problem. You must behave like a tough, but fair and self-confident “leader of the pack”, because this is how the animal perceives you.

The above method is old and proven by many dog ​​breeders. But it rarely happens that dogs should be punished for whining. For example, you can give her an unpleasant “Phew!” command when you hear whining or barking when you leave the room. If she obeyed, be sure to praise. In order to use this method, the dog must know this command. If she does not obey, then you should learn this command well – it is one of the main ones and will come in handy in the future and in other cases.

In general, always let your dog out or open doors for him only when he is not whining or barking. Tell her “Fu!” when she whines at the very moment when you are just about to go somewhere without her. However, if the dog is too excited, it is not necessary to punish him. If you live in a private house and your task is to wean the animal from whining in the aviary, then teach it the “Place!” command. When taking a dog into the enclosure, give this command and lock the doors behind it. If the dog follows the command flawlessly and does not whine when he enters the enclosure, praise him and give him some treats when you return. So she will quickly learn to behave “culturally”. When your dog starts whining in the car while looking out the window, cover the windows with curtains so that he doesn’t look around. But if the dog is prone to motion sickness, it can trigger an attack of nausea. On the road, you don’t need to be distracted and shout at the dog – it still won’t understand anything.

If it is too important for you whether the dog will whine, then think about it in advance at the stage of purchasing a puppy. Choose a puppy of a breed that is not too noisy. A dog of a mixed breed can behave unpredictably in this regard, because it is not known which breed traits will prevail in it. The quietest dog breeds are the Irish Setter and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. But the Siberian Husky loves to howl very much. Pugs and sharpei bark little, but make various other sounds quite often. Based on this, choose a dog with which you will be comfortable.

The cynologist named five rules for training a dog to muzzle

You can’t put a muzzle on a dog as a punishment or by force, training should take place gradually, President of the Russian Cynological Federation (RKF) Vladimir Golubev told Veterinary and Life. He listed five basic rules for how to train a dog to muzzle.

Rule #1: Don’t force your dog

“Getting accustomed to a new accessory should be gradual, never force a muzzle on your dog. Let your pet sniff the muzzle, let the dog make sure it’s safe. Wait until the dog gets acquainted with the new thing and stops showing interest in it, and then reward your dog,” explained Vladimir Golubev.

If the pet starts to play with the muzzle, the specialist recommends stopping the animal by commanding “No”. “The fact is that such an attitude to the accessory can prevent you from accustoming the dog to walk in it,” the dog handler specified.

Rule #2 Praise your dog for good behavior

Before muzzling your dog for the first time, the expert advises putting your pet’s favorite treat in it. “Then invite your dog to get it. Repeat this exercise, it will help eliminate fear and panic in the animal in front of a new object. When your dog senses the connection between muzzling and eating treats, put the muzzle on, reward your dog, and remove the accessory. Then put a muzzle on the animal, fasten it calmly and reward the dog with a treat through it every time it does not try to remove it from the muzzle,” said Vladimir Golubev.

He advises to gradually increase the pauses between rewards: in the end, you should praise the dog precisely for being muzzled for a long time.

Rule #3: Form a habit and positive associations

“You should never put a muzzle on your dog, for example, as a punishment. She should perceive it as something pleasant or neutral. This accessory must be safe for the animal. You can always show your pet the muzzle before you go for a walk,” commented the specialist.

In this way, the dog will associate the muzzle with the pleasant outdoor activities in the company of the owner.

Rule No. 4. Do not take off the muzzle at the request of the dog

When the dog is used to the muzzle, calmly in it at home, get ready for a walk. Many animals at this moment begin to actively remove it from themselves. “It is important not to let the dog do this. Distract the pet, give the command “Walk”, go to unfamiliar places, find distractions. Only after he has calmed down, remove him. If you take the muzzle off when your dog wants it, you will reinforce this behavior. If a dog behaves calmly on the street in a muzzle, be sure to praise him,” Vladimir Golubev drew attention.

Rule #5: Give your dog time

The expert noted that, like humans, dogs need time to get used to something new. “You should not think that, once treating a pet with a treat for allowing him to put a muzzle on him, he will always wait with great zeal until you get this accessory. Give the dog time, do not fasten the muzzle if you notice that the pet is frightened. Remember that this stage of addiction requires patience on the part of the owner, ”the cynologist warned.

The head of the RKF reminded that a muzzle is needed not only for those pets that are required by law to wear it, but even for the smallest companions. The muzzle helps the dog breeder to keep his pet safe on the walk so that he does not accidentally eat poisoned food on the street.